Fashion Rhymes – Prada Menswear a/w 2016

PRADA

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Turmoil bubbles all around us

Is there someone who can save us?

There’s uncertainty in the contemporary

So let’s take a trip through history!

Let us all meet in a square

And watch Sigmund and Simone

Wrestle with mythical gods

Drawn on deconstructed cloths

Worn by a new kind of sailors,

Who went on a journey seeking some wild roses,

But they brought back only sorrowful stories.

Can other people relate to these stories,

To the challenges that they confronted?

Is Prada’s updated historicism

Just another consumable “ism”?

“Don’t be serious,” she giggles

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Image source:

  • first set of images:  ‘dis-dressed’ ,special project by Willy Vanderperre
  • second set of images: Virginia Arcaro
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Povestea unei transformari de look / The Story of a Makeover

Schimbarile, mai ales cele radicale, nu au prea facut parte din viata mea de pana acum. Din diferite motive, sau poate doar din comoditate, am ales mereu sa urmaresc si sa analizez schimbarile din jurul meu distantandu-ma de ele. Treptat, mi-am creat un spatiu privat in care ma simteam in siguranta, cu care ma identificam, in care puteam sa ma dezvolt in ritm propriu. Acest tip de spatiu cred ca e mai cunoscut sub denumirea de  „zona de confort”.

Astfel ca, invitatia din partea echipei Vestige de a deveni noua lor imagine a insemnat pentru mine o provocare, din mai multe puncte de vedere. A fost o provocare din punct de vedere estetic (aceasta e prima data cand ma despart de culoarea mea de par naturala, e prima data cand am ocazia sa experimentez atatea tipuri diferite de machiaj si de coafura), a fost o provocare din punct de vedere al modului in care comunic si ma comunic exteriorului, si nu in ultimul rand, a fost o provocare din punct de vedere personal (am avut ocazia de a-mi deconstrui „zona de confort”).

Am acceptat aceasta provocare in primul rand pentru ca a venit din partea unor profesionisti in care am incredere. Daca cititi acest blog, stiti foarte bine ca am urmarit inca de la inceput activitatea salonului Vestige Atelier des Beaux Arts. Vestige este un proiect conceput de cei doi fondatori ai sai, Simina Cheteles si Raul Tisa din pasiune, dedicare, si dorinta de a impartasi celor interesati o altfel de viziune asupra frumusetii, o frumusete privita ca un atribut al personalitatii. Este de asemenea primul salon din Cluj care a fost alaturi de tinerii designeri clujeni oferindu-le un spatiu in care isi pot expune creatiile vestimentare spre cumparare (showroom-ul a fost inaugurat odata cu salonul Vestige Atelier des Beaux Arts, iar acum s-a mutat in cel de-al doilea salon Vestige, Vestige Centre Ville). Aceasta fiind doar una din multele colaborari frumoase dintre salon si zona designului vestimentar. Printre colaborarile de seama ale sale se numara colaborarea cu Gala UAD, cu Festivalul de film TIFF, cu cele mai de seama reviste de specialitate, ELLE si Harper’s Bazaar, participari la concursuri nationale si internationale workshop-uri tinute de experti din domeniul modei.

Al doilea motiv pentru care am acceptat provocarea de a deveni imaginea lor a fost transparenta de care au dat dovada in promovarea acestei imagini. Daca alte saloane aleg sa apeleze la modele profesioniste, Vestige a riscat de la inceput si a preferat sa reinventeze frumusetea neexplorata a unor femei obisnuite. Astfel ca, schimbarea de look devine ceva mai mult decat o simpla schimbare de look, ea implica o schimbare de atitudine si induce curajul de a explora diferitele ipostaze ale propriei feminitati. Cu ajutorul Siminei Cheteles care mi-a compus frumoasa nuanta de blond pudrat rose, al Lidiei Gligor care mi-a scos in evidenta feminitatea, prin machiaj,  purtand creatiile talentatului designer Ovidiu Pop, accesorizate de bijuteriile unicat create de Raluca Buzura si gentile semnate INDEE, am intrat in pielea unor diferite tipologii feminine. Pe parcursul acestei transformari am avut ocazia sa joc diferite personaje, realizand in final ca fiecare dintre ele contribuie la construirea propriei mele identitati. Pot fi seducatoare, romantica, gingasa, rafinata, creativa, sofisticata. Descoperindu-mi aceste noi ipostaze, am realizat ca feminitatea poate fi cea mai subtila arma a unei femei, pentru ca ea confera frumusetii puterea de a deveni atemporala.

(scroll down for the english version)

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Concept and Hairstyling  – Simina Diana Cheteles

Make-up – Lidia Gligor

Fashion Designer – Ovidiu Pop

Jewellery Designer – Raluca Buzura

Bag Designer – INDEE

Photographer – Emil Costrut

Changes, especially radical ones, have never been an important part of my life. For various reasons, or just out of convenience, I always chose to follow and analyze the changes around me by distancing myself from them. Gradually, I managed to create a private space where I felt safe, a space in which I found myself, and where I was able to grow at my own pace. This kind of space I think it’s better known as the “comfort zone”.

So, the invitation that came from the Vestige team, to become their new image represented a challenge for me, from different aspects. It was a challenge from an aesthetic point of view (this was the first time I changed the color of my hair, the first time I experience such a wide range of hairstyles and make-ups), it was a challenge for the way in which I usually communicate my identity to the world, and last, but not least, it was a challenge from a personal point of view (I had the opportunity to finally deconstruct my comfort zone)

I accepted this challenge first of all because it came from a team of professionals in whom I trust. If you are followers of my blog, you already know that I have been following and supporting the activity of Vestige Atelier des Beaux Arts. Vestige is a project conceived by its two owners, Simina Cheteles and Raul Tisa, out of passion, dedication, and the desire to share a different vision of beauty, a beauty regarded as an attribute of personality.  It is also the first beauty salon in Cluj which supported young designers by offering them a space where they could showcase their designs (the designers showroom was open at the same time as Vestige Atelier des Beaux Arts, but it was recently moved and rebranded inside the second Vestige beauty salon,  Vestige Centre Ville). This is just one of the many special collaborations between Vestige and the fashion design domain. Among the most notable collaborations there is the collaboration with the UAD Gala, with the TIFF Film Festival, with ELLE and Harper’s Bazaar, participations in national and international competitions, workshops organized by the salon in Cluj, held by experts from the fashion field.

The second reason for which I accepted the challenge of becoming their image was due to the transparency they have shown in promoting their image in the past. If other salons turn to professional models for their campaigns, Vestige chose to take a risk, even from the beginning, and preferred to reinvent the unexplored beauty of an ordinary woman. Thus, a makeover becomes more than a simple change of look, it also implies a change of attitude and gives you the courage to experiment the different aspects of your own femininity. With the help of Simina Cheteles, who dyed my hair in this beautiful shade of powdered pink blonde, and of Lidia Gligor who highlighted my feminine features through make-up, by wearing the design pieces created by the talented Ovidiu Pop, accessorized by designer jewellery made by Raluca Buzura, and INDEE handbags, I managed to portray different types of feminine beauty. Throughout this transformation, I had the opportunity to play with different characters in which I discovered bits and pieces of my own character. I discovered that I can be seductive, romantic, delicate, refined, creative, sophisticated.  By discovering new facets of my own femininity, I realized that femininity can be women’s most subtle weapon, because it offers beauty the power to become timeless.

Into the Woods with Juergen Teller

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Juergen Teller is unsettling us with each new photo, collaboration, campaign. His latest, the F/W 2015 Ad Campaign for Sonia Rykiel is another proof of his ability to twist our preconceived ideas of what beauty is. And for this, he teams up with the new artistic director of Sonia Rykiel, Julie de Libran who has previously worked with Louis Vuitton and Prada. Since she took the artistic helms of the brand, she has managed to handle Sonia Rykiel’s large legacy and to infuse it with modernity and a little bit of edge.

What I particularly like about this fashion film, besides Georgia May and Lizzy Jagger, is Teller’s clever play on image and sound. If you watch the video on mute, there is a kind of a dark sweetness emanating from the images, but if you turn on the sound, composed of the looped laughter of the sisters, the whole scenery turns into an eerie visual composition where the fantasy of luxury and the fascination of the natural unknown come out to play.

Images:

How Not to Get Bored (of Fashion) on Weekends

For me, the best way to relax on weekends is to watch movies. Sometimes, they can be the best remedy for fatigue, stress, boredom, sadness, and other such feelings that accompanied you throughout the week. So I’m thinking of sharing with you, each week, one movie that helped me detach from reality, and helped me enrich my visual repertory.

For this week, I chose Air Doll, a movie directed by Hirokazu Koreeda.

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WHAT’S IT ABOUT?

As in many Japanese movies, the plot synopsis is either hard to put into words, or (if you manage that) the words don’t do it justice, so please bear with me.  The movie is about a sex doll, named Nozomi, who is the sole companion of a middle aged man. He treats her as a human being, and one day, as he is away at work, the doll starts to come to life. And from here on, the weird delicate beauty of the movie unravels, but you will have to experience that on your own.

WHY DID I LIKE IT?

Air Doll is a tender visual metaphor about the unbearable lightness of life, and love, and human connection. Koreeda’s dreamy visual style captures Nozomi’s coming to life, her discovery of love and suffering in a world where people are so afraid to experience such emotions that they isolate themselves. They replace humanity with inanimate objects so they can protect themselves from pain. The director’s camera is floating through typically Japanese settings at a leisurely pace, mostly observing, sometimes even wandering, and it allows us, the viewers, to rediscover reality through Nozomi’s eyes. The soundtrack is composed by World’s End Girlfriend and it goes so well with the atmosphere of the movie that it merges you deep into Koreeda’s magical realism.

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IS THERE ANY FASHION IN IT?

The female character of the movie, impeccably interpreted by Bae Doona, has a limited wardrobe, composed mainly of fetishistic costumes (housemaid costume, nurse costume), due to her initial nature. They reminded me of Marc Jacobs collaboration with Richard Prince, way back when Marc was designing for Louis Vuitton, and of Murmur’s “Roleplay” collection.

74fe9c25a9713597974d243f6b942907Nozomi’s outfits, when she starts coming to life, become innocent, resembling a young girl’s wardrobe, in pale colors and fluid materials. Her style can easily be described as eerie, and fragile, as her existence.  

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Dress Like a Painting

If you are tired of dressing like a celebrity, or like a fashion icon, if your everyday fashion ensembles are too normcore, if you are tired of trends, or just tired of fashion people telling you how you should dress….dress like a painting.

Write in Google a painter whose name you’ve heard on the news because his paintings were sold in an auction for a surrealist sum of money, go to “Images”, and select your favorite painting based on color, shape, and on how pretty and interesting you consider it to be, and start composing your outfit.

For today, I chose Pablo Picasso’s painting called “Women with Yellow Hat”. It depicts one of his muses; I think she was also his last. For those of you who are interested in finding out more about the girl in the painting, her name is Jacqueline Roque and she appears in more paintings than any other of Picasso’s muses. A strong, and sort of strange woman, isolating herself and Picasso in the villa Chateau de Vauvenargue, is depicted in this painting as a tender, yet sinuous being. Her face is half covered in an almost burning light, half covered in darkness. I like the toughness of the lines that define her features, and I enjoy Picasso’s use of primary colors.

My designer choices for reinterpreting Jacqueline’s portrait would be:

– a jacket and a  bracelet by Celine

– shoes by Stella McCartney

– hat by Eugenia Kim

A little bit of toughness, a little bit of playfulness, and a little bit of tromp l’oeil romanticism.

how to dress like a painting

How to Have Fun with Trends

I have never been a fan of the color red when it comes to my personal fashion choices, but I have always been intrigued by its use in different visual compositions. Be it paintings, posters, videos, or movies, the powerful presence of this color always caught my attention. REDRUM, REDRUM, REDRUM, keeps coming to my mind, and it has a lot to do with how I perceive this color on a symbolic level. Love and death, sex and violence can easily be associated with the color red, and can infuse it with the power of subversion. And when it comes to subversion and the many facets of the color red, one must simply mention Kubrick, one of the movie directors who succeeded in transforming movie frames into enigmatic visual narratives. Kubrick’s use of primary colors which carry symbolic significance represents one of the main characteristics of his work. Thus, red underscores varying levels of meaning in his movies: physical and psychological violence in A Clockwork Orange, and The Shinning, sexuality and temptation in Eyes Wide Shut, humanity and lack of it in Space Odyssey.

Some of this season’s collections bare a scarlet sign, and as I was browsing them I came up with an idea: to select the pieces which resemble characters from Kubrick’s movies. I chose them based on the atmosphere of the movie, on the psychological characteristics of the characters, but also based on their fashion choices as they were revealed in the movies. It’s a fun creative game which you can play while watching your favorite movies.

Alice Harford (Eyes Wide Shut) dressed in Alexander McQueen

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(Full Metal Jacket) The uniforms worn by the soldiers designed by Thomas Tait

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Wendy Torrance (The Shinning) dressed in Hermes

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Lady Honoria Lyndon (Barry Lyndon) dressed in Simone Rocha

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The Cat Lady (A Clockwork Orange) dressed in J. W. Anderson

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Any female character (2001: A Space Odyssey) dressed in Christopher Kane

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Lolita (Lolita) dressed in Fendi

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Image source:

3 for Cluj

Last week I introduced a new category on the blog, promising you a weekly selection of three new and exciting designers. This week’s selection is based on the list of nominees for Romanian ELLE Style Awards category “Best Young Designer”. ELLE Style Awards is one of the most anticipated events in the Romanian fashion industry due to the magazine’s notoriety, as well as for its effervescent selection of designers, models, photographs, artists, and more. This year’s nominees for “Best Young Designer” category were: Alina Morar, Emese Bako, Crina Bulprich, and Imaculatura (a fashion project coordinated by Anca Adina Cojocaru and Irina Constantin). The winner, Alina Morar, was announced yesterday during the Award Gala which was held in Bucharest.

What I found interesting in this year’s selection for this category is the fact that out of 4 nominees, 3 are young designers from Cluj-Napoca. Alina Morar, Emese Bako, and Crina Bulprich are graduates of the University of Art and Design’s Fashion Design department, and together with some of their design colleagues, under the thorough guidance of their University professors, have managed to reconfigure the Romanian fashion map. Although its capital city – Bucharest – is still functioning as headquarter for the fashion industry, with all its events, magazines, boutiques, stores, and connections, Cluj-Napoca is becoming a laboratory for young and fresh ideas and designers. The reasons for this shift is due to the city’s artistic buzz, as well as the UAD (University of Art and Design) on-going strive to create a dialogue with the international fashion scene through internships, scholarships and creative support offered to their students. The emerging group of fashion designers are already proving their relevance on the national fashion stage.

ALINA MORAR

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EMESE BAKO

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CRINA BULPRICH

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crina-3photo source:

 

 

 

Les femmes s’ennuient le dimanche

This week the Romanian brand MURMUR launched a new line of clothing, dedicated to a more private audience, MURMUR Roleplay. As those of you who are familiar with the brand may already know, the aesthetic explored by its designer Andreea Badala is centred on seduction, on sensuality and desire. The MURMUR woman is a strong woman because she knows how to explore her femininity through specific elements which define the feminine universe. Her private space is where she feels comfortable, and her clothes are her weapons of seduction.

With this new line of clothing, MURMUR Roleplay, Andreea Badala wants to explore the hidden corners of her woman’s private space. What she discovers is a place of escape from the everyday restrictions, from socially accepted norms which enclose her fantasy. MURMUR Roleplay explores this “forbidden” place and turns it into a playground for those willing to enter it, offering them an appropriate wardrobe for their secret fantasies.

This new clothing line is composed of outfits, and pret-a-porter pieces inspired by fantasies and roleplaying. Be it a sensual housewife, a seductive housemaid, an untamed athlete, a temptatious nun, or a naughty schoolgirl, all of these roles that a woman plays in order to allure the outside world into her private space are part of a process of self – discovery. All these different characters are hidden inside a woman’s subconscious. The trick is to know how and when to let them out to play.

The collection was launched in a nonconventional space – a hotel, as a performance where different models playing different roles were placed in separate rooms of the hotel. The performance was designed to resemble a peep-show where guests were invited to visually explore the phantasies orchestrated by the designer.

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Photo: George Sandu

You can find the collection at: http://www.murmurstore.com/roleplay

Escapism: primavara-vara 2014

Moda poate fi perceputa ca o forma de escapism. Designerii mizeaza pe dorinta noastra de a evada din realitatea cotidiana si de a accesa, prin intermediul creatiilor vestimentare, un taram estetic in care oricine isi poate gasi locul. Fie ca ajungem sa purtam creatiile respective, sau doar sa sporim caracterul utopic al acestora, calatoria spre locul unde hainele capata sens ne este garantata.
Pentru sezonul primavara-vara 2014, designerii ne propun diferite pachete de vacanta. Unul dintre pachete, ofera doritorilor posibilitatea de a calatori intr-un spatiu intercultural, fara granite impuse, unde traditia se imbina cu inovatia, unde etnicitatea este reconfigurata, unde simbolurile devin ornamente.

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O camera cu vedere inspre saptamanile modei

Am participat la toate saptamanile importante ale modei. Am putut sa aleg show-urile pe care vroiam sa le vad si le-am vizionat pe toate din primul rand, si singurul de altfel din camera mea. Am putut sa particip la discutii cu cei prezenti la show-uri via twitter, am putut sa share-uiesc imagini din timpul prezentarilor via instagram sau facebook si am avut acces la reactiile de moment ale unor persoane importante din industria modei prin intermediul unor discutii gazduite de platforma SHOWstudio. Aceasta este experienta mea virtuala din cadrul saptamanilor modei.

Avand in vedere cantitatea considerabila de informatie care imi este pusa la dispozitie as putea cu usurinta sa va prezint fiecare colectie care mi-a placut, sa fac topuri, sa imi stabilesc propriile tendinte. Acestea sunt unele din avantajele pe care ni le ofera internetul. Doar ca tocmai datorita acestei accesibilitati fascinante pe care a dobandit-o moda prin intermediul internetului cred ca o abordare de acest gen poate parea invechita. Si cand spun asta nu desconsider propunerile de tendinte facute de platforme specializate, sau recenziile facute de specialisti cu experienta in acest domeniu. Cred doar ca  cei care apartin unor zone neconventionale, nespecializate (din punct de vedere teoretic), dar fara indoiala creative precum zona blogurilor de fashion, ar trebui sa profite de libertatea pusa la dispozitie de spatiul virtual si in loc sa recicleze informatii, idei, discursuri, sa genereze noi modalitati de expunere a modei.

Exercitiul pe care vi-l propun este de a explora vizual senzatiile si reactiile pe care unele dintre colectiile sezonului toamna-iarna 14/15 le pot genera in randul consumatorilor. Combinate cu fragmente din lista mea de preferinte cinematografice (si nu numai) , imaginile din colectiile prezentate in cadrul saptamanilor modei intra intr-un dialog interdisciplinar cu alte zone artistice.

NEW YORK FASHION WEEK:

VINCENT VEGA TRIMITE BEZELE COLECTIEI LUI ALEXANDER WANG SI ISI FACE IN SECRET O LISTA CU PIESE VESTIMENTARE IN CARE AR VREA SA O VADA IMBRACATA PE MIA WALLACE LA URMATOARELE LOR IESIRI IN ORAS

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BATMAN SUSTINE INITIATIVA DESIGNERILOR HUMBERTO LEON SI CAROL LIM PENTRU OPENING CEREMONY DE A SE FOLOSI DE AMPRENTE INTR-UN MOD CREATIV. BATMAN CONSIDERA ABORDAREA LOR “a very fashionable way of fighting crime”

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LUELLA BARTLEY SI KATIE HILLIER NE DEZVALUIE NOILE INGREDIENTE ALE BRANDULUI MARC BY MARC JACOBS: SUGAR SPICE AND EVERYTHING NICE (GIRL POWER VIA POWER PUFF GIRLS)

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LONDON FASHION WEEK:

FRANK BOOTH URMARIND COLECTIA LUI CHRISTOPHER KANE

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FEMINITATEA IN COLECTIA  J.W. ANDERSON. DETASAREA DESIGNERULUI IN CEEA CE PRIVESTE FEMINITATEA CONTINUA SA MA INTRIGE

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DEZICIA LUI MARY KATRANTZOU DE A SE INDEPARTA DE ZONA PRINTURILOR DIGITALE L-A CONVINS PE COLONENUL LANDA SA ISI FOLOSEASCA MEDALIILE IN ALTE SCOPURI DECAT CEL DE A-SI ETALA REALIZARILE PROFESIONALE.

Mary KatrantzouMary KatrantzouMILAN FASHION WEEK:

LA PRADA, SEXUALITATEA SUBVERSIVA FACE PE ORICINE SA ISI PIARDA MINTILE

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CEI CARE INCEARCA SA CRITICE COLECTIA REALIZATA DE JEREMY SCOTT PENTRU MOSCHINO PAR LA FEL DE LIPSITI DE SIMTUL UMORULUI PRECUM MARILYN MANSON INCERCAND SA TINA UN DISCURS DESPRE CONSUMERISM

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PARIS FASHION WEEK

SUBTILITATE INTELECTUALA  @ DIOR

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ATMOSFERA LA PREZENTAREA CHANEL:  EVERYBODY WANTS A PIECE OF CHANEL

chanelchanelLA MIU MIU, MIUCCIA PRADA NE EXPUNE CELE MAI ASCUNSE DORINTE IN VAZUL TUTUROR. DEZARMANT

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Inspiratie: http://www.tumblr.com/blog/zipcodefashion

 

Cum sa scapi de “fashion lag”

Orice fashionista care se respecta calatoreste cel putin de doua ori pe an cu scopul de a-si largi orizonturile , sau cel putin garderoba. Fie ca opteaza pentru o vacanta departe de retelele de socializare, de evenimentele mondene si de prietenii virtuali, fie ca isi “sacrifica” o parte din vacanta pentru a ne tine la curent cu cele mai cool update-uri care i-au marcat existenta, fashionista sufera la intoarcerea sa de un oarecare “fashion lag”. Pentru ca si eu, ca orice fashionista care se respecta, am fost plecata in vacanta si am simtit pe propria-mi piele acest “fashion lag”, m-am gandit sa va impartasesc cateva sfaturi care m-au ajutat sa reintru in circuitul natural al modei.

  • Incepe-ti ziua cu un mic dejun fashion in care sa se regaseasca, in cantitati moderate, ultimele tendinte, newsletter-ele site-urilor si blog-urilor pe care le urmaresti, noile numere din revistele tale preferate, toate presarate cu putin can-can

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artist – Tom Sachs

  •  Exerseaza in oglinda cele mai cool pozitii, descopera-ti noi unghiuri favorabile care iti vor pune in evidenta multiplele tale personalitati

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  • Iesi cu prietenii si povestiti-va aventurile prin care ati trecut de la ultima voastra intalnire.

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  • Planifica-ti noi proiecte

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  •  Exerseaza-ti remarcile acide

tumblr_mc1ilxzkOT1rikllxo1_500…si grimasele dispretuitoare

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  • Incearca sa te concentrezi si sa iti reiei activitatea zilnica

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  • Fii atenta la detalii

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  • Pastreaza-ti optimismul

tumblr_mrlnberM5J1qflj6wo1_500sursa gif-uri: tumblr

 

 

Follow the white rabbit

`But I don’t want to go among mad people,’ Alice remarked.

`Oh, you can’t help that,’ said the Cat: `we’re all mad here. I’m mad.  You’re mad.’

`How do you know I’m mad?’ said Alice.

`You must be,’ said the Cat, `or you wouldn’t have come here.’

Incursiunea mea in lumea modei s-a dovedit de multe ori asemanatoare cu incursiunea lui Alice in ciudata tara a minunilor. Perspectiva asupra modei  accesata prin intermediul internetului, asa cum este cel mai adesea accesata in prezent (prin intermediul site-urilor de specialitate, a blog-urilor, a magazinelor online, a retelelor de socializare) poate fi la fel de inselatoare ca o pisica Chesire. Avalansa de informatii postate, repostate, interpretate si rastalmacite trebuie supusa constant unui proces de selectie. Criteriile de selectie difera in functie de interesul fiecaruia. Dincolo de confuzia creata de updatarea constanta a spatiului virtual, ritmul biologic al industriei modei semnaleaza tulburari in regularitatea sa. Nu mai avem doar doua sezoane de propuneri creative, ci avem pre-colectii, colectii resort, colectii capsula, colaborari intre brand-uri, linii secundare. Suntem martori ai unei transformari a creatiei vestimentare intr-un bun de larg consum generata in mare parte de o democratizare a modei. Aceasta democratizare, chiar daca functioneaza deja de cativa ani buni, continua sa genereze polemici. Cei mai castigati, din punct de vedere financiar, sunt inevitabil marile companii aflate la carma industriei bunurilor de lux. Cei mai castigati vizual si informativ suntem noi, patimasi iubitori ai tarii aspre a minunilor.

Stapani ai propriilor domenii virtuale, ne permitem luxul de a re-cartografia imaginarul modei avand drept reper informatiile himerice venite de pretutindeni. Singurele limite sunt cele impuse de noi.

Intr-un astfel de context, incercarea mea de a stabili repere concrete ale modei la inceput de 2013 pare la fel de suprarealista ca petrecerea organizata de Palarierul Nebun. Si totusi o reflectare asupra fenomenului modei devine oarecum necesara pentru mine; un moment de respiro in care incerc sa imi re-validez credinta intr-un sens al modei, dincolo de cursul sau prestabilit.

Rei Kawakubo a reusit prin colectia Comme des Garcons pentru toamna-iarna 2012-2013 ceea ce nu a reusit fatidicul 21.12.12 – transcenderea intr-o noua dimensiune.  Intr-un prezent obsedat de navigarea spatiilor virtuale si transformarea suprafetelor bidimensionale in iluzii tridimensionale, Rei Kawakubo declara transant: „The future is in two dimensions”.

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Ecoul mesajului ei s-a rasfrant in multe dintre colectiile ce anunta tendintele sezonului primavara-vara 2013, doar ca mesajul poetic  al colectiei Comme des Garcons a fost simplificat pentru a putea functiona intr-un sistem mercantil. Sabloanele din pasla folosite de Rei au alimentat explorarea obsesiva a formelor impersonale pe care  designerii occidentali le promoveaza. O repercusiune a acestei explorari, a unei resemantizari a minimalismului si a promovarii unei imagini androgine pare sa anunte un sfarsit al feminitatii (asa s-ar explica si prezenta neobisnuita a negrului in colectiile pentru primavara-vara, un fel de doliu vizual in memoria acesteia) si re-nasterea sa intr-o noua forma.

„The future is in two dimensions” sa dezvaluie oare noua forma pe care feminitatea o va intruchipa? O „dimensiune masculina” a formelor riguroase, a taieturilor precise, ornamentata cu o „dimensiune feminina” a voalurilor, pliseurilor, jocurilor geometrice si florale, a volanelor si a sclipirilor. Daca la nivel stiintific, in laboratoare secrete, se incearca prin inginerie genetica, crearea unui om superior, la nivel estetic, in ateliere secrete, designerii incearca prin intermediul tiparelor, materialelor, tendintelor sa creeze o noua forma a feminitatii.

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Incursiunea in lumea modei este mereu generata de curiozitate. Alegem sa „coboram in vizuina iepurelui” pentru ca stim ca doar asa vom putea accesa taramul „de dincolo”. Odata ajunsi acolo, incercam sa deslusim sensul calatoriei. Deslusindu-l insa, nu diminuam oare aura de mister a acestui spatiu? Poate ca doar re-imaginandu-l, rastalmacindu-l ajungem sa il intelegem cu adevarat. After all, we must be a little mad, or’ we wouldn’t have come here…

sursa poze:

Sneak peek

Ieri seara a avut loc Gala UAD a sectiei de design vestimentar. Pentru ca anul acesta am avut ocazia de a experimenta Gala dintr-o perspectiva diferita decat in ceilalti ani, vrem sa va oferim un material putin mai detaliat. De indata ce vom primi setul de poze de la eveniment, va vom dezvalui mai multe amanunte despre colectiile care ne-au atras atentia. Pana atunci insa, pentru cei care nu ati fost prezenti azi la vernisajul expozitiei absolventilor UAD, va oferim un “sneek peek” al colectiilor apartinand sectiei de Moda si Design Vestimentar din Cluj-Napoca. Puteti sa mergeti sa vizitati atat partea aceasta a expozitiei cat si lucrarile studentilor celorlalte sectii din cadrul Universitatii de Arta si Design in cursul saptamanii viitoare.

Artcademy: Round 2

Din 2011, CODECS se afla in parteneriat cu L’Institute Supérieur Specialisé de la Mode dinParis (MOD’SPÉ PARIS), alaturi de care a lansat un nou concept de studii superioare pentru industria modei dinRomania– artcademy fashion business school. Despre acest program si modul in care este structurat, am vorbit intr-o postare mai veche. Pentru cei care si-ar fi dorit sa faca parte din prima promotie artcademy, dar nu au reusit din diferite motive, incepand de ieri, 13 iunie si pana in data de 28 septembrie, au sansa de a se inscrie in cel de-al doilea an de cursuri artcademy.

Anul academic 2012-2013 ofera primilor trei cursanti clasati in functie de rezultatele obtinute pe parcursul orelor de studio, sansa de a le fi rambursate integral costurile de inscriere si sustinere ale scolii.

„Anul trecut lansam un nou concept de studii superioare pentru industria de modă din România. În curând vom avea prima promoţie de absolvenți artcademy®, pioneri ai programului pe piața locală, dispuși să investească bani și timp pentru a-și dezvolta acele abilități care transformă moda din pasiune într-o afacere de succes. Știm că programele de dezvoltare personală și profesională necesită efort susținut, astfel că ne-am gândit să venim cu o completare la nivel de motivare: primii 3 studenți clasați în urma evaluărilor finale vor fi răsplătiți pentru timpul și efortul depus și vor primi înapoi taxa de înscriere” declară Radu Dan Mihăescu, Preşedinte şi Director General CODECS.

Programul cursurilor este in fiecare weekend, de vineri pana duminica (vineri17:00 – 21:00iar sambata si duminica09:00 – 18:00), cu predare in limba engleza. Pentru cei care nu sunt interesati, sau nu beneficiaza de suficient timp pentru a participa la toate cursurile din prgrama artcademy, au posibilitatea de a alege sa urmeze doar cursurile ce le-au atras atentia in mod special si de a se inscrie numai la cursurile respective, fara a fi nevoiti sa frecventeze intreg programul scolii.

Pretul integral al cursurilor este 5.000 euro + TVA, iar participarea la un curs de weekend costa 190 euro + TVA.

Pentru informatii si inscrieri, puteti trimite e-mail la office@artcademy.ro sau suna la numerele de telefon: 021-252.51.82/83/84.