A Reflection on Raf

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When Matthew McConaughey’s character in Interstellar enters an extra-dimension where time appears as a spatial dimension showing glimpses of his daughter’s childhood bedroom at various times, he manages to find a solution to save mankind. Raf Simons, for his haute couture show at Dior reconstructs that surreal scene by placing mirror fragments at different angles so that the white scaffolds could reflect in those mirrors creating the impression of an infinite space where ideas interconnect. Will he find the solution to save mankind? Probably not, because that’s not his job. His job is to find, each season, the best solution to keep fashion alive. And that’s not an easy job, and he knows it. All eyes are on him, and he is feeling the pressure of each and every one of his fans, critiques, customers, buyers.

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He chose as a reference for this show the iconic pop star David Bowie, and beyond the visual references, I feel that the connection is much deeper. Ziggy Stardust, probably Bowie’s most well-known persona is the personification of an alien who is trying to communicate with mankind through his music, being destroyed in the end by his own inner demons and by the fans that worshiped him. Raf is seen by some as an alien in the haute couture world, a world constricted by rules and standards. And although he proved himself worthy of this world, the fear of him being devoured by it still lingers. Will he manage to deliver his message of creative freedom in the future? Or will he be devoured by his fans, by the Dior heritage, and by his independent nature?

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O noua corporalitate: Iris van Herpen

Colectia designerului olandez Iris van Herpen a reusit sa se impuna in cadrul saptamanii Haute Couture din Paris, devenind in scurt timp subiectul preferat al cercurilor connoisseur-ilor si carcotasilor din lumea modei.

A lucrat in atelierele Mcqueen si Viktor & Rolf, si-a prezentat colectiile in Amsterdam, Londra, Berlin, Hong Kong, Shanghai, Tokyo, si cu toate acestea nu poti anticipa socul visual si estetic pe care ti-l ofera creatiile acesteia.

Ce reuseste Iris van Herpen sa faca este sa creeze o noua corporalitate prin manipularea tehnicilor traditionale folosite in atelierele de haute couture si imbinarea lor cu materiale si procedee avangardiste de prelucrare ale acestora care, pentru ochiul unui necunoscator, par a fi teleportate din viitor. Creatiile sale dau nastere unei simbioze stranii intre corpul fizic, al purtatorului, si corpul artificial, creat cu ajutorul materialelor.

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