Over the years The UAD Gala has established itself as a platform whose aim is to promote young graduates of the UAD Department of Fashion Design. Through the graduates’ fashion show, which involves very complex logistics, innovative collections are presented to specialists and representatives of the creative industries. The collections always try to be relevant for the 21st century fashion landscape, through themes that are focused on specific issues of contemporary lifestyle, a thorough study of volumetries and clothing morphologies generating novel interventions on textile surfaces, the relationship between body and garment, and an elaborate styling.

The implication of the Department of Fashion Design in the educational process of their students is rewarded by their professional achievements. Thanks to scholarship programs, the UAD students were able to apply and be accepted in internships at international brands such as: Ann Demeulemeester, Craig Green, Ann Sophie BACK, Nasir Mazhar, BLESS, Erdem, Marios Schwab, Meadham Kirchhoff, Barbara i Gongini, Ashish, Michael Sontag, HAAL, H&M. Two of last year’s Gala graduates have obtained important results: Andreea Castrase now works for the department of creation at H&M, and Ancuta Sarca was one of the finalists of the international competition, Designer for Tomorrow.

This year’s collections were living proof of the educational and professional development that takes place within the Department of Fashion Design. With the didactical support of Elena Basso Stanescu, Lucian Broscatean, and Anca Pia Rusan, the students designed versatile, functional, and modern collections. There were collections that stood out immediately, and collections that were more subtle in their artistic approach. But each and every one of the 27 collections had something particular, something creative, and personal. The 10 collections I chose to analyze represented, for me personally, aspects of the fashion universe that interest me. The way they were portrayed in these collections offered me the chance to explore those aspects from a different perspective.


Ramona finds inspiration in Romania’s recent past, and delivers a collection that is nostalgic in a playful manner. During the communist years, the uniform played an important part in people’s lives. From kindergarten, until employment, the uniform gave its wearer a social identity. Ramona Manghiuc reinvents the notion of the uniform by playing with its characteristics. She uses simple shapes, primary colors (referencing the colors of the Romanian flag) in order to orchestrate contemporary ensembles that revolt against an oppressive system, whose days are over, but whose cultural repercussions are still present. The styling of the collection uses symbols of bravery, badges of honor which she transforms in simple embellishments, esthetical objects without any historical meaning for those that did not live during the communist years. Even the title of the collection speaks of a loss of meaning, a blissful historical amnesia: Ceau, an abbreviation of the fearful communist leader’s name, becomes a cordial form of greeting.

Ramona Manghiuc


Bogdan Druta’s revolt is also connected to the idea of identity, but in his case it is a physical, not a social one. He seeks freedom in constraint, acceptance in discrimination, vulnerability in intolerance. The designer’s unisex rendering of shapes reveals his desire to blur the physical boundaries between sexes. The garment’s earthly tones represent his visual statement against contrasts. His protest is a subtle one, but his clothes are powerful enough the stand alone.

Bogdan Druta


The road to self-discovery is paved with ambiguity. Liliana Timis invites us on her personal journey of identitary exploration. Her monochromatic visual composition is an introspect reflection on the concepts of androgyny, identity, and the ambiguity of such concepts. The rigid surfaces of the black garments are invaded by unexpected transparences. The play on surfaces and textures is sometimes intriguing, and the consistent styling communicates harmoniously with the musical arrangement of the collection, Bernard Herrmann’s composition for Hitchcock’s Psycho.



One has to re-tie the knots with tradition from time to time, and Adriana Timofti felt this need, so she transformed it into a subtle reinterpretation of ethnicity through her collection. By using traditional symbols, she designed well-tailored minimal pieces that evoke an archaic world in such a way that it looks contemporary. Her combination of different textures, bound by zippers, and accessorized with geometric- shaped designer objects seemed to be a smart approach to the symbolic signification of the knot.

Adriana Timofti


The auditive enhancer that first caught my attention, a track from Kubrick’s Eyes Wide Shut soundtrack,  was part of Nicoleta’s device to lure us into a world of utopia, decadence, narcissism, and illusions, a world that might seem a little too similar to the world of fashion. Her well-tailored garments are not simple pieces of clothing, but personal statements of opulence and social status. They are revealing the body, but are protecting the wearer by communicating her belonging to a privileged group. Though the intangibility is only a mask, the frailty of what’s behind it is always intriguing.

Nicoleta Botnaru


Anamaria Put delivered a clean and functional collection, composed of desirable modern pieces. The woman who would wear her designs, her future client, surely is someone who knows who she is, she wants her clothes to be versatile, and offer her freedom of movement. She likes her clothes to be subtle in order to enhance her personal aura of mystery. She is a traveler, collecting new meanings in each journey she takes, as her clothes do.

Ana Put


An “all black” collection is mistakenly considered by some as something easy and safe. A monochromatic collection can become repetitive, boring and pretentious really fast. But not Carla’s collection. Her non-color statement is emotional, bearing something eerie within it. The smartly placed brooches, and necklaces makes one think of ritualic objects which, if positioned accordingly, have the ability to offer access to its wearer into an imaginary space, a supernatural realm where the conscious intertwines with the subconscious. But despite this visual metaphor, the clothes are strong enough to function on their own. They are well tailored, wearable, and functional.

Carla Put


In our present times, the existence of subcultures is a subject up for debate. The short life of trends, the uncontrollable desire for what’s new, and a predisposition for scrolling through social groups makes the process of consolidating a subculture almost impossible. If today’s culture is focused on individuality, then maybe the subculture that derives from it is that of an individualism of excesses. Its members are those who cultivate a lifestyle of hedonistic excesses. Their weapon of choice is narcissism. Luis Drajan’s collection offers us a glimpse into such a subculture. The clothes that he designs may well function as uniforms for the sympathizers of a radical narcissism. Always ready for party, seeking attention through self-irony, they prefer to detach themselves from reality and live their augmented lives within online social platform. The “nostril bleeders” as the designer nicknames them are aware of their addiction, and because they expose it in such a detached manner, they make us uncomfortable, and question our own hidden addictions.

Luis Drajan


Sabina Pop’s collection is inspired by women who have influenced the art world. Artists such as Judith Chicago, Louise Bourgeois, and Vanessa Beecroft were her muses, their art functioning as background for Sabina’s exploration of the idea of emancipation. Throughout her collection she experiments with different patterns, textures, in a colorful juxtaposition. The woman she envisions finds liberation in reappropriation. The way she uses color blocks and geometries communicates, at a visual level, the daring nature of the wearer and her preference for a modern wardrobe. Like her muses, who succeeded in liberating themselves through their art, Sabina offers us the possibility to dare and experiment with our wardrobein a liberating manner.

Sabina Pop


Like your favorite scene from a movie, or a song that you like so much you play it on repeat for two days, a memorable fashion collection haunts you. It sticks to your retina and travels with you until it becomes a memory, and a benchmark for future aesthetical references. But like memory, fashion can sometimes play tricks on you. Because it is such a powerfully visual medium, in many cases the image can be more powerful than the message, but not in the case of Emese Bako’s collection. Her inspiration comes from the idea that “attitude becomes form”. Her aesthetical analysis of this idea becomes an in-depth exploration of the transformation of concept into object. For her, fashion is a trickster, the crystal embellishments she applies on the garments play with our perception, their movement and sparkle seduce us, and trigger our imagination. The purple velvet used in some of the pieces induces a dreaming state, and the shiny surfaces, elegantly reveal the transparencies. Her understanding of fashion is mature because her designs are not artistic experimentation with form; they are functional objects of desire. Together with the styling of the collection and the haunting soundtrack (Skeeter Davis – The End of the World), Emese Bako’s collection truly stands out.

Emese Bako

Our present is governed by rupture. It exists in the enormous differences between social classes, in financial inequalities between countries, in the way media communicates different events, in the way we communicate with each other. Current socio-political events force us to find ways of escaping reality, hoping that this way all that’s bad will go away. But nothing good can ever come out of such an approach. What we can do is find ways of fighting against these ruptured times. Together, with their own means, within the walls of the University of Art and Design from Cluj-Napoca, the department of Fashion Design, composed of students and their professors managed to find the perfect “weapon” for fighting against troubled times: creativity.  Fashion is not a secluded domain; it does not rely on solitary elements, it is dependent on communication, collaboration, and interdisciplinarity. It may not solve diplomatic conflicts (although I’m sure that it helps in some ways), or stop world hunger, but it will keep on asking questions and try finding answers through creativity.

Photo credit: Emil Costrut, powered by QSmile, Claudia Corega


10 Ingredients for a New Generation of Designers

The current state of fashion was described by some as overabundant, redundant, and obsolete in a way. These words weigh heavy on the designers and challenge them to come up with a plan to resuscitate the curiosity and excitement of the fashion crowd. Some have focused on the story, some on the heritage, some on innovation, some on product. A similar mood and a desire to refresh the “current state of fashion affairs” was felt during this year’s UAD Gala, an event celebrating its 21st edition. From the unconventional venue where the event was held, to the soundtrack of each collection, every little detail was smartly orchestrated and managed to infuse a sense of optimism and ease.

26 collections belonging to this year’s graduate students of the Fashion Design department walked down the catwalk, a catwalk specially designed for the event on the halls of the modern Sala Polivalenta in Cluj-Napoca. The BA collections were coordinated by Prof.Univ.Phd. Elena Basso Stănescu and Lect.Univ.Phd. Lucian Broscățean, while the MA collections were coordinated by Prof.Univ.Phd. Elena Basso Stănescu and Prof.Univ.Phd. Anca Pia Rusan.

As in every year since I’ve been attending the UAD Gala as fashion aficionado, supporter of the event, or as member of the Henkel jury (from which I had the pleasure of taking part this year), my first reaction after watching the collections was one of admiration towards the talent of the graduate designers, but also towards the collective involvement of those who guide, and support their talent. What follows next is a period of a few days in which I revisit my first impressions of each collection. I look at the photos, I read my notes, I try to make up stories that can narrate what some of the collections managed to convey. But this year, thinking about what I told you at the beginning of the article, I felt the need to try a new approach and think of the “ingredients” that made this year’s UAD Gala an invigorating event.

  1. Optimism

Aliz Simon – Nouvelle Ere

Mixing with ease the minimalism of colour combinations and experimentation with shapes, Aliz Simon managed to portray a personal view of a new age, as the title of the collection announces. The association of hard and soft materials reveals a modern type of femininity. The woman she envisions belongs to present times, is not afraid to experiment, and manages to maintain her innocence through a sophisticated play on details. Her optimism and wits when it comes to the reinterpretation of symbols and sophistication convinced me and the other members of the Henkel jury to reward her with the Perwoll Young Designers Award.

2 - Aliz Simon-5

2 - Aliz Simon-1

2 - Aliz Simon-2

2 - Aliz Simon-3

2 - Aliz Simon-4

  1. Interdisciplinarity

Diana Ilea – Untitled

Blurring the lines between art and fashion, Diana Ilea plays with the concept of abstraction. Inspired by modern art, her collection reflects the search for meaning through simplicity. The minimalist lines of the garments are destabilized by violent strokes of red and abstract insertions of ‘untitled” doodles. The association of materialities infuse energy into the designs.

4 - Diana Ilea-5

4 - Diana Ilea-1

4 - Diana Ilea-2

4 - Diana Ilea-3

4 - Diana Ilea-4

  1. References

Linda Szabo – Parallels

Referencing the feminine lines characteristic of Dior’s “new look” and combining them with the hardness of elements belonging to military apparel, Linda Szabo’s collection reveals her interest in the historical investigation of fashion. The softness of the colour pallet is contrasted by the toughness of the harnesses, the asymmetric tailoring, and the wadding volumetries. A certain metaphorical struggle can be sensed in Linda’s investigation of the parallels between war and peace, austerity and aesthetical indulgence.

5 - Linda Szabo-5

5 - Linda Szabo-1

5 - Linda Szabo-2

5 - Linda Szabo-3

5 - Linda Szabo-4

  1. Reinterpretation

Bianca Negrea – Fuse

The story of a collection is composed of separate points of reference and it takes a skilled narrative tailor to sew them together. Bianca Negrea found inspiration in a zoomorphic folkloric ritual which takes place in winter in some parts of Romania, and is known as “Fools Day”. This ritual implies dressing up in a bear suit, people covered in mud and lard, so it seems kind of crazy of Bianca to choose such an inspiration for her collection. But this is where her collection stands out, due to the designer’s ability to reinterpret a story and infuse it with new meanings. By extracting only the relevant aspects of this story and filtering them through her own esthetic perspective, Bianca Negrea managed to present us a very cool, urban and extravagant collection…which is a long way from lard and mud.

12 - Bianca Negrea-5

12 - Bianca Negrea-1

12 - Bianca Negrea-2

12 - Bianca Negrea-3

12 - Bianca Negrea-4

  1. Social commentary

Regian Frolich – “Rising Weapons”

Besides their aesthetic function, the purpose of clothes is to protect the wearer from the aggressions of his surrounding environment, be it climatic, social, or human aggressions. Regian Frolich’s collection, entitled “Rising Weapon” seems to tackle a sensitive aspect of our present: the impending threat of war generated by the ongoing conflicts from different parts of the world. Inspired by military attire, his clothes are designed to shelter our physical body from the destructive social nature. The pieces composing the collection are layered through styling in order to resemble a textile shield which renders the feeling of safety, without ignoring the functional aspect of such attire.

3 - Regian Frolich-5

3 - Regian Frolich-1

3 - Regian Frolich-2

3 - Regian Frolich-3
3 - Regian Frolich-4

  1. Deconstruction and Reconstruction of Folkloric Heritage

Nadejda Iacubina – “Marita-ma mama!”

When it comes to deconstructing Romanian folklore, many would roll their eyes and tell you that nothing new can be said or done about the subject. Nadejda Iacubina begs to differ, and I salute her for that, because I think that in order to consume ones curiosity regarding a certain subject, one should revisit it, deconstruct and reconstruct it until you assimilate what you were meant to learn and discover. It is a kind of ritual of self-discovery, and the idea of ritual stands at the core of Iacubina’s collection. From a spiritual perspective, the ritual of marriage represents a union between two individuals, who become one. Focusing on the reinterpretation of traditional male attire, the designs symbolise a renunciation of all preconceived ideas regarding gender differences and reveal a visual union of the couple. The clothes were made out of raw cotton, leather, and wool with graphic insertions of gold, harmoniously combined. The accessories were inspired by dowry chests, revealing the designer’s attention to details.

16 - Nadejda Iacubina-5

16 - Nadejda Iacubina-1

16 - Nadejda Iacubina-2
16 - Nadejda Iacubina-3

16 - Nadejda Iacubina-4

  1. Meditation

Magdalena Butnariu – “Spirit Amara: “an harm it none, do what ye will”

The fragile nature of creation offers it a unique beauty. Magdalena Butnariu’s collection investigates this kind of beauty attributing it to nature, celebrating its ability to detach itself and those that embrace it from a mechanized existence. As the models came down the runway in their perfectly starched ensembles, I couldn’t help imagining them as members of a cult, a secret society living in a dystopic reality which has lost its contact with nature, carrying on their backs the remains of a lost world. Eager to save the last traces of humanity, they carry in their wooden and glass backpacks the last specimens of plants, hoping they will find a way to save them. They also hide between the perfectly cut and pleated folds of their garments, as in a herbarium, their favourite flowers which still bare the smell of grass, and trees, and rain. The detached beauty of the garments bore a kind of nostalgia which invites you to meditate on the importance of nature and memory. Through her story, designs, accessories and the mood her collection generated, she managed to impress the Henkel jury and was rewarded with the Perwoll Young Designers Award for best MA collection.

25 - Magdalena Butnariu-6

25 - Magdalena Butnariu-1

25 - Magdalena Butnariu-2

25 - Magdalena Butnariu-3

25 - Magdalena Butnariu-4

25 - Magdalena Butnariu-5

  1. Eclecticism

Ancuta Sarca – “Eleganza”

One of the reasons I enjoyed this year’s UAD Gala was the fact that I got to see some of the BA graduates from two years ago, who were now presenting their MA collections. One of those designers is Ancuta Sarca whose funky “Ghetto Superstar” collection from two years ago made me think of running away to join the La S.A.P.E sartorial gang in Congo. During these two years Ancuta had the chance, through a scholarship offered by the University, to work as an intern in the Meadham Kirchhoff design studio in London. This experience did not change her aesthetic approach, but enriched it with a pathological desire to experiment. Her BA collection entitled “Eleganza” is an eclectic composition mixing 18th century opulence with 20th century subcultures. For me it had a New Romanticism feel which certainly had to do with the uninhabited joy and decadence of mixing colors and textures. Ancuta Sarca had fun designing her collection, from her rollercoaster ride through history and aesthetics, until the styling details like the shoes which were hand-made by her, or the abstract print strokes that covered some of the garments which were painted by Andreea Tivadar. ”Eleganza” can easily function as fashion manifesto for a youth subculture whose members enjoy contemplating the thought of drinking tea and eating cake with Marie Antoinette in a Candy Crush castle.

24 - Ancuta Sarca-6

24 - Ancuta Sarca-1

24 - Ancuta Sarca-2

24 - Ancuta Sarca-3

24 - Ancuta Sarca-4

24 - Ancuta Sarca-5

  1. Irony

Alina Morar – Fara Numar

Alina Morar chooses to explore the manele subculture focusing on the fashion choices of those embracing it in order to raise questions regarding prejudices, differences, and the aesthetical value of kitsch. The distinct features of the manele fashion style are opulence, an attraction for oriental embellishments, logo display, western affordable luxury clothing brands, and flashy jewellery. Alina uses all these elements of a distinct fashion style and reinterprets them in such a way that it tricks us into liking a style which we despised for its lack of consistency, refinement and good taste. But how does she manage to do that? She uses elements from the manelist wardrobe such as suits, flashy jewellery, robes and sportswear and reinterprets them through different tailoring techniques to give them a modern and unconventional edge. Her irony is subtle and witty.

23 - Alina Morar-7 23 - Alina Morar-1 23 - Alina Morar-2 23 - Alina Morar-3 23 - Alina Morar-4 23 - Alina Morar-5 23 - Alina Morar-6

  1. Introspection

Andreea Castrase – Rites of Passage

Having as sources of inspiration myth, ritual, ceremony, transition, Andreea Castrase’s collection distinguished itself through a certain detachment. Her introspective approach on the analysis of concepts allowed her to create garments which carry with them the beauty of ideas while being able to stand alone as functional and wearable items of clothing. The designer uses natural fabrics which she embellishes with lace to create the illusion of dimension, and metallic buckles to give weight and offer closure. Clothes can sometimes function as intimate symbols of personal transformation, and Andreea Castrase understands that. The items composing her collection have the ability to become timeless pieces, carrying with them  the stories of many rites of passage.

For her creativity, the use of concept and modern sewing and cutting techniques, Andreea Castrase was rewarded with the Syoss Award for innovative design.

26 - Andreea Castrase-1 26 - Andreea Castrase-2 26 - Andreea Castrase-3 26 - Andreea Castrase-4 26 - Andreea Castrase-5 26 - Andreea Castrase-6 26 - Andreea Castrase-7

Photos by Emil Costrut

A Sneak Peek of the UAD Fashion Design Collections @ Expo Transilvania Exhibition

A long title for a short blog post, but the fact is I want to save all my fancy words for a long blog post with a short title in which I will tell you more about my favorite collections from this year’s UAD Gala. Until then, I have some images for you from the UAD Exhibition at Expo Transilvania which opened this Sunday and includes the graduation works of students from every University department.

This year, the Fashion Design department chose to present the works of the students through a photo editorial shot by Emil Costrut which was displayed on the walls of the exhibition hall. The photos represent stylized outfits of the graduates collections and offer us a glimpse of what the designers were trying to reveal through their designs. Some of my favorite collections were:

Aliz Simon

Aliz Simon

Bianca Negrea

Bianca Negrea

Nadejda Iacubina

Nadejda Iacubina

Alina Morar

Alina Morar

Ancuta Sarca

Ancuta Sarca

Andreea Castrase

Andreea Castrase

Magdalena Butnariu

Magdalena Butnariu

Getting Ready for the 21st UAD Gala

Busy week this week on the blog, a lot of exciting events, but the one closest to my heart is the UAD Fashion Design Gala. The event will take place on the 27th of June, which is tomorrow, and this year it will take place in an unconventional location, the new and very modern Sala Polivalenta building in Cluj-Napoca. I can’t wait to see the collections of this year’s graduates, especially the MA collections because a few of the MA graduates had a very interesting professional journey these last two years, and I am sure that their collections will reflect that.

I am also excited that once again I was invited to be a member of the Henkel jury who will award the best collections according to a set of criteria established by representatives of the brand.

Previews with some of the collections we will be viewing tomorrow can be seen on the official Gala UAD facebook page and Instagram, so if you are curious and want to stay in touch with the things to come, like and follow them 🙂

11027128_1093373990689986_8562703181684637376_o 11541998_1093333294027389_4580316975349812761_n

@ Electric Castle, Fashion is Unplugged

FashionUnplugged_LOGO_ID_Profile_pic_yellow_01-1A couple of months ago I was telling you about a new creative project, Fashion Unplugged, whose aim is to promote young fashion designers from Cluj-Napoca as part of Electric City, an event promoting the forthcoming Electric Castle Music Festival.

After its success during the Electric City event, the Fashion Unplugged team is announcing a second project which will take place during the third edition of the Electric Castle Festival at Banffy Castle, near Cluj. The Fashion Unplugged project invites us fashion aficionados to mix good music with quality fashion design on a specially designed Fashion Stage where 20 designers, stylists, make-up and hairstyle specialists, photographers and special guests will offer us the chance to interact in a nonconventional way with fashion.

Throughout the entire music festival, the Fashion Unplugged “line-up” will include styling workshops, fashion consulting, trend presentations and personalized shopping sessions. The designs on display have been specially created for this event, and had music festival outfits as inspiration. Visitors can purchase the designed products on spot at affordable prices.


The 20 designers who will showcase their designs on the Fashion Stage from the 25th of July until the 28th of July are: Aitai  Lorincz,  Flore  Diana,  Ancuța Sarca,  Andras Andrea, Crina Bulprich, Teodora Vișinescu, Oana Lupaș, Astrid Țîrlea, Ingrid Teodosiu, Anca Țința, Alexandra  Ivașcu,  Nazarica Bartoș, Luis  Drăjan,  Emese Bakó,  Georgiana  Giuroiu,  Florin  Brătan, Sabina Pop.

Fashion Unplugged is a chance for fashion lovers, as well as for a wider audience to interact with designers and their products, to find out more about their work and to consult specialists in styling (Catalin Enache, the official X Factor Romania stylist is the special guest of the event), hairstyle and make-up, and hopefully to understand that we can wear Romanian designs and be cool about it. Those who will step on the Fashion Stage at Electric Castle will get the chance to experience a total make-over which will be caught on camera by Emil Costrut and will be uploaded on the Catwalk15 app.

Fashion Unplugged is powered by The One Magazine.

Setup arrangements by Aramis Feeling





3 for Thursday

Do you remember that episode (it’s from season 6) from Friends when Joey teaches Chandler a way to remember the names of days? It’s one of my favorite Joey quotes:

“Thursday! Look, if you need help remembering, just think of it like this: The third day. All right? Monday, one day. Tuesday, two day. Wednesday, when? Huh? What day? Thursday! The third day! Okay?”

As a way of celebrating Joey’s unique wisdom, and as a way of highlighting the importance of creativity in every aspect of our everyday life (even in the case of re-inventing the seven days of the week), I was thinking of presenting you every week, on Thursday, the third day (according to Joey) a personal selection of designers who will convince you, through their creativity, that things don’t always have to be as they are.

For this week I have chosen three British young designers, and their s/s 2015 collections: Ashley Williams, Claire Borrow, and Hannah Weiland from Shrimp.

Ashley Williams is one of the 8 designers who have received this year’s NEWGEN sponsorship. She  studied a BA in Womenswear at The University of Westminster, and her collection for s/s 2015 focused on the culture clash between the east and west in the late 60s early 70s.

ashley williams

Claire Borrow also studied fashion at University of Westminster, and made her debut in fashion through the platform Fashion East (as Ashley also did), and is now exhibiting with NEWGEN. Her aesthetic focuses around youth culture, and subcultures, and has a “do it yourself” vibe, but the talent and attention for details transpire her collection. For her s/s 2015 show she was inspired by science fiction, creating pieces suited for dystopian girls and boys.

claire borrow 1

claire borrow

Hannah Weiland is a London-based designer whose whimsical line of faux furs is called “Shrimps”. As she describes it, her “sweet, fluffy, and colorful” designs are beautifully crafted, and combine British humor with a touch of the surreal and nostalgia. Although Hannah is still at the beginning of her fashion career, her “Shrimps” are a hit among fashionistas such as Susie Bubble, Kate Foley, Alexa Chung, and Lily Allen. For her spring/summer 2015 collection, Hannah teamed up with lounge-wear brand Poplin and created silk pajamas to complement the Shrimps furs in a playful reinterpretation of the Flintstone’s animated universe.

shrimpsshrimps 2photo source:


A 20-a calatorie a Galei UAD


O calatorie, de orice fel ar fi ea, implica obstacole, situatii neasteptate, descoperiri si redescoperiri, dezamagiri, surprize, intalniri si despartiri inevitabile. O calatorie te schimba si te invata ca doar acordand timp poti explora spatiile strabatute. Gala UAD este o calatorie care a ajuns la cea de-a 20-a destinatie si toti calatorii care au pornit in ea, mai devreme sau mai tarziu, au contribuit la cartografierea unui spatiu aparte. De la cadrele didactice care au incercat mereu sa le ofere studentilor resursele necesare pentru a-si perfectiona talentul, la organizatori care construiesc de la an la an una din cele mai relevante platforme de promovare a tinerilor designer de la noi din tara, la presa de specialitate care sustine talentele aflate la inceput de drum, sau la platformele online care viralizeaza prin mijloace proprii colectiile absolventilor, toti acesti “calatori” isi intersecteaza drumurile o data pe an pentru a lua cu ei mai departe in drumul lor o parte din creativitatea, energia si experienta Galei UAD.

14 colectii la nivel de licenta, coordonate de catre  Prof.Univ.Dr. Anca Pia Rusan, Lect.Univ.Dr. Lavinia Ban și Prep.Univ.Drd. Smaranda Bercea si 10 colectii la nivel de masterat coordonate de catre Prof. Univ.Dr. Elena Basso Stanescu și Prof.Univ.Dr. Anca Pia Rusan au stabilit reperele unui spatiu creativ unde voivozii se inarmeaza cu accesorii statement, personajele Disney ne dezvaluie partea intunecata a fanteziei, casnicele isi neaga conditia, subculturile mixeaza elemente din zone aparent eterogene, matematica si iubirea isi continua jocul in alb si negru, iar destinele trecutului bantuie inca strazile cateodata intortocheate, cateodata prea clare ale unui oras aflat intr-o continua metamorfoza. Pe podiumul amenajat in interiorul Teatrului Național din Cluj-Napoca au defilat deopotriva colectii feminine si masculine compuse din tinute realizate din materiale traditionale sau neconventionale prelucrate prin diferite tehnici de matlasare, imprimare, brodare. Colectiile prezentate, completate de un styling de efect si de accesorii pe masura (incaltamintea creata de Mihaela Glavan special pentru unele dintre colectii a fost preferata mea) au incercat sa se alinieze la tendintele din moda actuala si sa se integreze intr-un lifestyle contemporan.

Sabina Pop isi alege dificila sarcina de a ne face sa zambim intr-un prezent in care trecutul a fost de atat de multe ori reinterpretat incat multe batalii au fost pierdute in fata plictiselii si a nonsensului. Dar ea reuseste sa castige aceasta batalie, inarmata cu o mana de voivozi „blindati” in materiale neconventionale si bling-bling-uri care le atesta apartenenta la o castă cool si dezinvolta.

DSC_8455 DSC_8373 DSC_8394 DSC_8415 DSC_8434

Acelasi exercitiu ludic il incearca si Vitos Ildikó, adaugandu-i o tenta critica si pe alocuri sinistra. Gasindu-si inspiratie in imaginarul animatiilor Disney, Ildikó reinterpreteaza inocenta prin prisma luciditatii unui adult prins intr-o realitate precara. Tricotajele realizate din saci menajeri, ce constituie materialul principal al colectiei, țes un comentariu ironic la adresa societatii in care designerul traieste si este fortat sa recicleze aceleasi idei pentru a supravietui in sistemul modei. Razvratirea ei consta tocmai in procesul reciclarii, dar nu al ideilor ci al materialelor, intr-o incercare de a-si pastra inocenta viziunii.

DSC_8866 DSC_8736 DSC_8768 DSC_8804 DSC_8836

Colectia designerului Nazarica Bartoș m-a dus cu gandul la unul dintre filmele mele preferate, Blue Velvet. Intitulatata “White Picket Fence” si avand ca inspiratie imaginea casnicei anilor 50, colectia incearca sa ne ofere acces la ceea ce se ascunde dincolo de imaginea unei feminitati idealizate. The grass isn’t greener in the underground, asa cum nuantele de roz ale materialelor folosite de designer nu sunt ale unui roz care in mod normal te duce cu gandul la o feminitate gingasa, fragila, inocenta. Stylingul dezvaluie psihozele ascunse in spatele gardurilor perfect vopsite in alb, iar sacosele si borsetele alimenteaza dramatismul unui univers feminin captiv intr-o lume a prejudecatilor.

DSC_9309 DSC_9196 DSC_9232 DSC_9257 DSC_9282

Anamaria Puț ne spune povestea unui personaj nonconformist, obligat sa se adapteze unei lumi a nuantelor domoale. Surrender, numele colectiei, nu pare insa a fi declaratia de capitulare in fata normelor sociale, ci o manevra subtila si inteligenta de infiltrare in conformism fara a nega individualitatea purtatorului. Avand ca inspiratie stilul de viata si vestimentatia punk, colectia Anamariei Puț reuseste sa reinterpreteze haosul si socul vizual generat de punk intr-o maniera perversa. Perversitatea ei reiese din alegerea materialelor, din culorilor predominante, din styling-ul unitar.

DSC_8568 DSC_8478 DSC_8508 DSC_8525 DSC_8548

O alta colectie masculina care mi-a atras atentia a fost cea a lui Demeter Evelin intitulata Maasai Cricket Warriors. Explorand vestimentatia tribala si cea sportiva, cu trimitere la echipamentul jucatorilor de cricket din Kenya (echipa despre care am aflat cu aceasta ocazie ca militeaza pentru rezolvarea problemelor specifice comunitatii sarace), colectia construieste imaginea unui grup care pune pret atat pe vestimentatia pe care o poarta cat si pe mesajul pe care aceasta il transmite. Statement-urile pacifiste imprimate pe unele dintre piesele colectiei comunica la nivel vizual convingerile celor care aleg sa le poarte. Uniti in credinte, impartasind aceleasi valori, luptatorii urbani ai lui Demeter Evelin formeaza un trib degajat din care multi ar dori sa faca parte.

DSC_9511 DSC_9543 DSC_9565 DSC_9587 DSC_9603

Puț Carla investigheaza la randul ei dinamica unui grup de indivizi aparte. Atentia ei se indreapta spre cei aflati fara adapost, fortati sa supravietuiasca intr-un spatiu din care au fost exclusi. Relatia conflictuala dintre acestia si spatiul urban ostil se transforma treptat intr-o simbioza in care individul, pentru a supravietui, se camufleaza imprumutand elemente caracteristice din acel spatiu. Asocierea dintre materiale naturale si neconventionale, suprapunerile realizate prin styling intregesc o colectie consistenta. Rucsacele din material transparent poarta cu ele spiritul unor strazi cateodata goale, cateodata pline, la fel ca si strazile interioare ale purtatorilor.

DSC_9648 DSC_9678 DSC_9713 DSC_9746 DSC_9772

Iluzia optica in colectia lui Bakó Emese este compusa dintr-un joc al pieselor pierdute, o reuniune estetica a contrastelor. Al Jebre, numele colectiei este termenul care se afla la originea algebrei si la originea portretizarii iubirii de catre designer. Piese vestimentare masculine sunt suprapuse peste cele feminine, texturile diferite ale materialelor se completeaza reciproc, transparentele dezvaluie alte suprafete sub atenta observatie a designerului. Formulele prin care ea incearca sa exploreze natura schimbatoare a iubirii isi gasesc rezultatul intr-un dialog cerebral dintre sexe.

DSC_9979 DSC_0019 DSC_0045 DSC_0070 DSC_9956

Crina Moldovan se foloseste de formule matematice riguroase pentru a construi piese vestimentare cerebrale. ”Curatate” de orice artificiu vizual, piesele ce constituie colectia designerului, intitulata sugestiv Cub, pun accent pe functionalitate. Siluetele simple, construite din linii drepte sunt realizate din lana, metal, piele, materiale care, la nivel conceptual, fac trimitere la experimentele artistului minimalist, Carl Andre. Rigurozitatea ansamblurilor ma duce cu gandul la uniforme, uniformele unui grup de femei moderne, inteligente, care au capacitatea de a percepe versatilitatea si relevanta unei astfel de garderobe pentru prezentul in care traiesc.

DSC_8703 DSC_8597 DSC_8627 DSC_8654 DSC_8678

Colectia lui Aitai Lorincz ne confera o calatorie fizica si spirituala intr-un trecut dominat estetic de imaginea Reginei Maria. Siluetele colectiei sunt inspirate de silueta perioadei interbelice, de mantourile lui Paul Poiret, de linia camasilor de noapte taranesti, a sumanelor si caftanelor boieresti. Materialele selectate de designer, organza, tulul, stofele peliculizate sunt innobilate cu perle si pietre si contribuie la reconstruirea unui trecut romanțat.

DSC_2103 DSC_2123 DSC_2151 DSC_2182 DSC_2268

Gabriela Dejo isi gaseste inspiratia undeva departe de haosul occidentului. Estetica japoneza wabi-sabi reprezinta o modalitate de a percepe frumusetea printr-o acceptare a imperfectiunii. Imprimeurile inspirate din elemente ale naturii radiografiate, texturile materialelor folosite si accesoriile realizate din bambus contribuie la construirea unui univers vestimentar in care constientizarea ciclului natural al cresterii, degradarii si mortii il face pe individ sa isi reevalueze propriile valori.

DSC_1968 DSC_2032 (1) DSC_2060 DSC_1862 (1) DSC_1897

Departe de haosul si murmurul sacaitor al realitatii modei ne-au dus si colectiile absolventilor UAD de anul acesta si pentru cateva ore am reusit sa ne detasam de nimicurile cotidiene si ne-am reamintit (macar unii dintre noi) cat de frumos pare un nou inceput de drum. Restul…e doar fum si iluzie.


Credit foto colectii: Daniel Robu


#bloggers4galauad sau pledoarie pentru social media

Anul acesta am avut ocazia sa particip la Gala UAD Fashion Design in calitate de membru al unui juriu special care a oferit pentru prima data in cadrul evenimentului ajuns la cea de-a 20-a editie un “pasaport catre social media” absolventilor. Acest juriu a fost conceput in urma invitatiei organizatorilor evenimentului care au dorit sa integreze blogurile de fashion in promovarea absolventilor. Chiar daca relevanta acestora in industrie continua sa fie dezbatuta, iar directia creativa a unora nu vizeaza in mod special zona artistica a fenomenului modei, vizibilitatea in social media poate sa le ofere tinerilor designeri promovare si posibilitatea de a intra in contact cu diferite publicuri. Astfel ca initiativa Prep.univ.drd. Lucian Broscățean, sustinuta de Raluca Popa, Diana Flore si Vestige Pret a Porter, showroom-ul din incinta Vestige Atelier des Beaux Arts care gazduieste creatii ale absolventilor UAD din anii trecuti, ale caror creatii am avut placerea sa le purtam in cadrul Galei de anul acesta, a reprezentat pentru noi, bloggerii, o oportunitate de a ne folosi resursele din online pentru a duce si mai departe ceea ce unii dintre noi facem de cativa ani: sustinerea si promovarea tinerilor designeri.

Criteriile de jurizare au fost alese in asa fel incat sa omogenizeze punctele de vedere ale membrilor unui juriu compus din bloggeri apartinand unor zone diferite ale blogosferei de fashion. Transpunerea conceptului in piesele vestimentare, originalitatea, executia, adaptabilitatea, relevanta pentru moda prezentului si viral appeal-ul (capacitatea colectiei de a circula in online) au fost aspectele pe care membrii juriului #bloggers4galauad le-au luat in considerare in alegerea castigatorilor. Notele au fost acordate de la 1 la 5 (1 fiind nota cea mai mica), iar rezultatul final a fost obtinut prin calcularea tuturor notelor si stabilirea unui clasament. Chiar daca vocea bloggerilor este prin definitie una subiectiva, in alegerea facuta am incercat sa ne pastram obiectivitatea. Astfel ca, detinatorii pasaportului catre social media sunt:  LUIS DRĂJAN la nivel de licenta, si LUCIAN RUSU pentru colectia sa de masterat.

Ce este interesant de observat, dincolo de obiectivitatea alegerii facute, e modul in care se leaga cele doua colectii castigatoare in contextul fenomenului social media. Pe de-o parte avem colectia lui Luis Drăjan intitulata Me, Luis care face trimitere la o cultura a narcisismului in care individul se pune in centrul universului sau si practica auto-descoperirea prin hedonism. Chiar daca aceasta cultura cunoscuta si sub numele de „Me Culture”, sau “Baby Boomer” isi are originile in cultura pop americana a anilor 70, este poate si mai relevanta pentru prezentul in care traim. Retelele de socializare functioneaza ca niste oglinzi ce distorsioneaza realitatea in functie de dorintele utilizatorilor si au puterea de a transforma necunoscuti in noii idoli ai generatiilor tinere.  Colectia lui Luis Drăjan functioneaza ca un exercitiu hiper-personal si ironic de auto-analiza, care presupune sintetizarea elementelor definitorii si accentuarea caracteristicilor personale prin exagerarea detaliilor particulare. Destinate unui public masculin, piesele ce constituie colectia pot functiona cu usurinta si in garderoba feminina, pentru ca in „cultura eu-lui” ceea ce conteaza cu adevarat este ego-ul purtatorului. Prin intermediul styling-ului, colectia isi afirma apartenenta la o categorie de varsta care intelege importanta imaginii personale si care are know-how-ul necesar pentru a alege hashtag-urile corecte in momentul in care isi vor posta pe retelele de socializare imagini cu ei purtand piese din colectia designerului.

DSC_0236 DSC_0203 DSC_0168 DSC_0140 DSC_0106

Colectia lui Lucian Rusu abordeaza individualitatea intr-o maniera conceptuala. Radical din chip este o colectie care pune in discutie intr-o maniera creativa fragmentarea mentala si corporala care pe mine ma duce cu gandul la repercursiunile pe care le are tehnologia asupra fizicului si psihicului omului contemporan. Faptul ca designerul a ales sa foloseasca materiale neconventionale, specifice tapiteriei automobilelor contribuie la analiza conceptului frumusetii intr-un prezent mecanic. Reconfigurarea frumusetii porneste de la explorarea relatiei dintre om si tehnologie, rezultatul interactiunii generand forme hibride, asimetrii si incizii la nivelul materialelor. Radical din chip este o colectie care surprinde profunzimea prin intelegerea suprafetei. Intr-un prezent in care imaginea primeaza, designerul „sparge” oglinzile pentru a dezvalui o frumusete dincolo de aparente. Mecanismele de prindere ale materialelor ne duc cu gandul la un experiment neortodox, precum cel al doctorului Frankenstein, dar rezultatul obtinut de Lucian Rusu este departe de a fi monstruos, este o recompunere a frumusetii intr-o maniera personala

DSC_2803 DSC_2644 DSC_2671 DSC_2695 DSC_2725 DSC_2774

Daca Luis Drăjan se foloseste de mecanismele de functionare a culturii superficialitatii, Lucian Rusu le disloca pentru a le reconfigura sensul. Doua abordari diferite, doi designeri talentati, doua colectii relevante pentru un prezent in care social media-ul are in continuare puterea de a face rotile sa se invarta.

credit foto: Daniel Robu



Noua generatie de tineri designeri romani la cea de-a 20-a Gala UAD

In data de 29 iunie a avut loc la Teatrul National Cluj-Napoca Gala de Absolvire a studentilor sectiei Moda si Design Vestimentar ai Universitatii de Arta si Design. Aceasta editie a fost una speciala, celebrand 20 de ani de existenta a acestui eveniment care a reusit de-a lungul timpului sa ofere studentilor o platforma de promovare si validare a talentului lor. Henkel Romania a fost din nou alaturi de absolventi si cu ajutorul unui juriu, din care Zipcodefashion a avut placerea sa faca parte pentru a doua oara, alaturi de Mirela Bucovicean, fondatorul Molecule F,  si reprezentanti ai companiei Henkel România, a premiat trei tineri designeri.

Juriul de anul acesta a acordat doua distinctii pentru recunoasterea talentului tinerilor designeri romani si sprijin in debutul unei cariere in moda:  Premiul Perwoll pentru tineri designeri (pentru excelenta in alegerea si combinarea tesaturilor), respectiv Premiul Syoss pentru cea mai inovatoare colectie (din perspectiva materialelor, a mesajului si a creativitatii stilului).

Premiul Perwoll pentru tineri designeri a fost castigat de Nazarica Bartos la nivel de licenta si de Aitai Lorincz pentru colectia de masterat.

Colectia care constituie lucrarea de diploma a talentatei castigatoare premiata de Perwoll Nazarica Bartoş  –denumita „White Picket Fence” – reconfigureaza silueta feminina pentru a redefini stereotipul de „housewife”, stergand conotatiile negative din jurul acestuia. Alegerile cromatice au in centru rozul prafuit, ca un comentariu personal al artistei la adresa imaginii clasice a sotiei perfecte.

Nazarica Bartos_2_Nazarica Bartos_1_Nazarica Bartos_Colectia White Picket Fence_Castigatoarea Premiului Perwoll pentru tineri designeri_licenta

Cel de-al doilea designer premiat de Perwoll la Gala de Absolvire UAD 2014, Aitai Lorincz, a reusit sa cucereasca juriul si publicul prin colectia sa, denumita  „Memoriile unui destin”. Creatiile vestimentare care o compun exploreaza perioada interbelica si a Reginei Maria, ca un tribut adus istoriei si valorilor nationale, inspirandu-se din linia camasilor, sumanelor si caftanelor boieresti din acele vremuri, cu tesaturi innobilate cu perle, in combinatii de organza si tul, stofe peliculizate, fire metalice si dantele.

Aitai Lorincz_2_Aitai Lorincz_1_Aitai Lorincz_Colectia Memoriile unui destin_castigator Premiul Perwoll pentru tineri designeri

In premiera la aceasta gala aniversara, Syoss a acordat un premiu special pentru cea mai inovatoare colectie, punctand elementul de originalitate care da nastere noilor trenduri de stil. Juriul a desemnat colectia creata de Lucian Rusu (absolvent master) drept castigatoare a premiului Syoss. Denumita Radical în Chip”, colectia lui Lucian Rusu, a iesit din tipare datorita originalitatii exprimate prin cele 12 creatii vestimentare care recompun frumusetea intr-o maniera personala. Colectia a fost creata folosind materiale specifice tapiteriei automobilelor si accesorii care sugereaza o instalatie, fiind inserate in ansamblul dislocat al unei roti de bicicleta.

Lucian Rusu_2_Lucian Rusu_3_Lucian Rusu_Colectia Radical in Chip_castigator Premiul Syoss pentru cea mai inovatoare colectie

Pe langa sprijinul financiar, cei trei castigatori vor beneficia de promovare din partea Henkel Romania, prin marcile sale Perwoll si Syoss, atat in cadrul evenimentelor dedicate modei, cat si pe platformele de comunicare online ale brandurilor.

Premiul Perwoll pentru Tineri Designeri a fost acordat de-a lungul anilor pentru creativitate in combinarea tesaturilor in colectiile de absolvire catre: Alina Morar si Cătălin Vălean (2013, absolvenți ai UAD), Irina Silistraru si Alexandra Ivaşcu (2012, absolvenți ai UAD), Doina Pirău si Andreea Boariu (2011, absolvenți ai UAD), Ramona Manea si Roxana Benea (2011, absolvente ale UNA București), Alexandra Puşcaşu si Maria Hera (2010,absolvenți ai UAD).

Paradoxul Ioanei Ciolacu Miron

Cu ceva timp in urma povesteam in cadrul unui interviu cu designerul Ioana Ciolacu Miron despre sinergia dintre moda si arhitectura. Aceasta intalnire cordonata intre doua domenii artistice, in aparenta diferite, i-a oferit Ioanei o fundatie solida pe care acestea continua sa isi cladeasca un traseu coerent in lumea modei. Astfel ca, la inceputul lunii iulie, in cadrul concursului organizat de Peek & Cloppenburg Dusseldorf si Fashion ID, designerul Ioana Ciolacu Miron a fost desemnata castigatoare a premiului Designer for Tomorrow. Dincolo de recunoasterea pe plan international pe care a primit-o designerul prin participarea si castigarea acestei competitii, beneficiile practice oferite de organizatori sunt gandite in așa fel incat sa sustina si sa supervizeze in continuare cariera castigatorului.

“I found the DfT (Designer for Tomorrow) award’s aim of long-term support particularly impressive, because success is not only a matter of design skill and creativity, but also of understanding how the business works,” declara Stella McCartney care a fost anul acesta mentorul participantilor la concurs si membru al juriului.

Compania de retail Peek & Cloppenburg KG, Duesseldorf a inteles importanta pe care un program durabil de finantare si promovare o poate avea in procesul creativ si in dezvoltarea tinerilor designeri. Astfel a luat nastere concursul international Designer for Tomorrow, in cadrul caruia din anul 2009 si pana in prezent se premiaza si se sustin talentele emergente din designul vestimentar.

La concursul Designer for Tomorrow  pot aplica toti cei care au terminat, sau sunt pe cale de a-si finaliza studiile in domeniul designului vestimentar, cat si cei care detin dovezi ce atesta participarea la cursuri de profil in ultimii doi ani. Dintre toti cei care aplica, se aleg 5 designeri (Ioana Ciolacu Miron -Romania, Katy Clark -Scotia, Jamie Wei Huang – Taiwan, si designerii Germani – Hannah Kuklinski si Annalena Skörl Maul, anul acesta) care au sansa sa isi prezinte colectiile in fata juriului si in fata publicului prezent la show-ul din cadrul Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin. In urma show-ului de anul acesta, dintre cele 5 colectii a fost aleasa cea a Ioanei Ciolacu Miron care a obtinut astfel titlul de Designer for Tomorrow. Juriul a fost compus din specialisti din domeniul designului vestimentar, atat din online cat si din offline. Pe langa membrii juriului, mentorul ( “the patron”), care anul acesta a fost designerul Stella McCartney, va fi in continuare alaturi de castigator, invitandu-l pe acesta la show-ul sau din cadrul Saptamanii Modei din Paris.

DfT Hosted By Stella McCartney - The Fashion Talent Award By Peek & Cloppenburg Duesseldorf And Fashion ID - Show

Castigarea premiului Designer for Tomorrow inseamna pentru Ioana Ciolacu Miron vizibilitate internationala, recunoasterea talentului si creativitatii sale, dar si o sansa de a-si pune bazele unei afaceri de viitor. Așa cum spuneam si mai devreme, unul dintre beneficiile majore ale participarii la acest concurs este acela de a primi sustinerea financiara care, combinata cu talent pot ajuta un tanar designer sa se integreze in, si chiar sa influenteze sistemul modei. Ioana C. Miron va primi fondurile necesare pentru a-si deschide si echipa un atelier, va primi sponsorizari si suport tehnic pentru realizarea urmatoarei sale colectii care va fi prezentata intr-un show individual in cadrul Saptamanii Modei din Berlin in primavara lui 2014.

Colectia Ioanei Ciolacu Miron care i-a adus titlul de Designer for Tomorrow a avut ca inspiratie elementele contrarii care ii formeaza existenta. Procesul sau creativ se transforma astfel intr-o explorare a propriei identitati: feminina si tomboy, timida si extrovertita, tehnica si sensibila. Backround-ul sau in arhitectura, perioada petrecuta in Londra studiind in cadrul London College of Fashion, cat si elemente ce provin din viata de zi cu zi au ajutat-o pe Ioana sa isi stabileasca reperele colectiei sale care a ajuns astfel sa fie intitulata „Paradox”.


2 3 4 5Si daca ne uitam cu atentie la piesele care constituie colectia Ioanei, contradictiile care ii definesc experienta personala se reflecta in suprafetele materialelor – structurate si fluide. Ea a ales sa lucreze si cu materiale neconventionale precum plastic transparent, sau sa experimenteze cu un material spumant  care este folosit in mod normal in arhitectura pentru a izola fonic spatiile (termenul tehnic cred ca este cel de spuma poliuretanica). Designerul a transformat acest material industrial combinandu-l cu lana pentru a putea construi diferite structuri pe suprafetele pieselor vestimentare. Tot la nivel de materiale, Ioana creeaza imprimeuri realizate de ea manual, care sunt transferate prin tehnici digitale pe suprafata materialelor. Atentia acordata detaliilor capabile sa ii insufleteasca povestea este cu siguranta unul dintre motivele pentru care Ioana a ajuns sa fie castigatoarea premiului Designer for Tomorrow.

DfT Hosted By Stella McCartney - The Fashion Talent Award By Peek & Cloppenburg Duesseldorf And Fashion ID - Show DfT Hosted By Stella McCartney - The Fashion Talent Award By Peek & Cloppenburg Duesseldorf And Fashion ID - Show DfT Hosted By Stella McCartney - The Fashion Talent Award By Peek & Cloppenburg Duesseldorf And Fashion ID - Show DfT Hosted By Stella McCartney - The Fashion Talent Award By Peek & Cloppenburg Duesseldorf And Fashion ID - Show

Styling-ul colectiei a fost unul degajat, potrivit unei persoane creative si outgoing din mediul urban. Diversitatea pieselor vestimentare prezentate ne demonstreaza capacitatea designerului de a se gandi, dincolo de partea conceptuala, la nevoile persoanelor care ii vor purta creatiile. Elementele contradictorii ce ii definesc Ioanei Ciolacu Miron universul creativ au conlucrat pentru a evidentia talentul si perseverenta designerului, calitati atat de necesare unui Designer for Tomorrow.

DfT Hosted By Stella McCartney - The Fashion Talent Award By Peek & Cloppenburg Duesseldorf And Fashion ID - Show DfT Hosted By Stella McCartney - The Fashion Talent Award By Peek & Cloppenburg Duesseldorf And Fashion ID - Show DfT Hosted By Stella McCartney - The Fashion Talent Award By Peek & Cloppenburg Duesseldorf And Fashion ID - Show DfT Hosted By Stella McCartney - The Fashion Talent Award By Peek & Cloppenburg Duesseldorf And Fashion ID - Show


sursa poze:


How to steal a Molecular Necklace

“Colectia Molecular Necklaces pornete de la vizualul celular si molecular, de la vederile microscopice” ne povesteste Raluca Popa, designerul din spatele proiectului Atelier 173. Chiar daca Atelier 173 este un proiect demarat de putin timp in online, prima noastra intalnire cu creatiile Ralucai Popa a avut loc in urma cu aproape trei ani. Colectia ei de licenta, Anatomy of Self , a fost una dintre cele mai bine construite colectii prezentate in cadrul Galei UAD din acel an. Inca de la acea colectie, fascinatia designerului pentru corpul anatomic, pentru imagistica medicala a putut fi reperata in constructia pieselor vestimentare. In colectia Etheric Body, designerulu a introdus in “studiul sau anatomic” o dimensiune spirituala. Corpul fizic intra in interactiune cu cel spiritual iar peisele vestimentare se transforma in suprafete pe care aceasta interactiune se materializeaza.

In completarea colectiilor vestimentare, Raluca Popa creeaza accesorii. Anatomic Accessories, Hipster Touch, Unattended Jewelry sunt cateva dintre mini colectiile de accesorii create de designer. Spre exemplu, Etheric Accessories, proiect realizat chiar inainte de Molecular Necklaces, prezinta o serie de “coliere realizate cu sticla si lanturi care au ca baza imaginea sistemului osos, a vertebrelor, omoplatilor, claviculelor si osului coxal si pun in discutie fragilitatea sticlei in relatie cu fragilitea si efemeritatea corpului uman.” Estetica designului marca Raluca Popa  se inspira din intersectia artei cu elemente provenind din imagistica medicala, creatiile sale continuand sa exploreze metamorfoza trupului in obiect.

Pictorialul de prezentare al colectiei Molecular Necklaces este realizat in colaborare cu fotograful Sebastian Florea, iar conceptul din spatele shooting-ului a fost gandit de Alexandra Ivascu. „The Heist”  nu vine ca o completare a conceptului colectiei ci mai mult ca o potentare a esteticii colierelor.” Fashion can be dangerous and it can easily rob you of your identity if you let it, pare a fi mesajul pictorialului. Nu folosi accesoriile ca sa iti ascunzi identitatea, foloseste-le ca sa iti potentezi individualitatea.


sursa poze:

Another kind of Visual Kontakt

Experimentele, indiferent de natura lor, au capacitatea de a genera noi modalitati de percepere a realitatii. In mediul artistic, curajul celor care se incumeta sa experimenteze necesita implicit o asumare a unui posibil esec si, in acelasi timp, curajul de a infrunta impedimentele pentru a putea transforma experimentele in ceva concret.

Asociatia Visual Kontakt este o organizatie non-profit cu sediul in Oradea care isi propune sa sustina artisti, indiferent de domeniul in care acestia activeaza, dandu-le ocazia sa isi manifeste creativitatea intr-un spatiu in care nu sunt restransi financiar. Samizdat, extensia in format de revista a experimentului curatorial Visual Kontakt, este o publicatie  in tiraj de 1000 de exemplare, distribuita gratuit in orasele Oradea, Cluj-Napoca si Debrecen. Revista lunara de arta contemporana reuneste reflectiile unor participanti la fenomenul artistic asupra evenimentelor culturale si artistice, asupra schimbarilor ce au loc in perceptia asupra artei, revista devenind astfel un soi de “galerie scrisa”, un laborator in care experimentele vizuale intra in contact cu pagina.

In ultimul numar al publicatiei, un shooting realizat intr-o locatie neconventionala mi-a atras atentia si m-a determinat sa va dezvalui in cateva randuri ceea ce consider a fi un proiect care indrazneste sa abordeze creativitatea cu sinceritate si indrazneala.

1 (1) 2 3 4 5 6

Designeri: Astrid Tirlea, Diana Flore, Teodora Visinescu

Fotograf: Emil Costrut

Model: Silvana Radu

Locatia: Biserica greco-catolica “Buna Vestire”, Vadul Crisului

Pentru mai multe poze si informatii in legatura cu proiectele Visual Kontakt, accesati , … 



Colectia capsula, realizata de Lana pentru magazinul online MOJA, exploreaza prin intermediul imprimeurilor digitale imagistica celui mai neconventional lacas de veci: Cimitirul Vesel de la Sapanta.

Povestile ce merita spuse isi gasesc mereu o forma sau un canal prin care sa ajunga la urechile celor dispusi sa asculte. Povestile prin forma pe care o iau  si prin mesajul pe care il transmit pot genera empatie, iar Lana intelege aceasta abilitate a lor. Tocmai de aceea, transpunerea imaginilor tanatice pe tesaturi nu le deterioreaza vizual. Lana se foloseste de acestea, plasandu-le intr-un alt mediu, pentru a le permite sa isi cuvanteze povestea unui nou public. Biografiile ilustrate ale unor oameni neinsufletiti se transforma astfel in podoabe vestimentare, utilitare, capabile de a intersecta cu purtatorii lor si cu povestile acestora, generand unele noi.


In realizarea colectiei capsula pentru MOJA, designerul pastreaza o linie simpla a hainelor, pentru a permite o transpunere clara a mesajului, fiind atent la detalii in procesul creativ. Croielile amintesc usor de linia portului traditional oferind in acelasi timp libertate de miscare. Piesele imprimate digital pot fi cu usurinta combinate intre ele sau purtate separat, functionand astfel ca piese statement ce scot din anonimat orice tinuta.

Este oare moda frivola pentru ca recurge la manipularea unor imagini tanatice sau este colectia Lanei un reminder al faptului ca moda, ca si viata nu trebuie luata niciodata prea in serios?


sursa poze:

Florina Ivascu – “Archi-Couture -The Antidote to Uniformity”

Florina Ivascu este absolventa a Academiei di Belle Arti di Brera din Milano si a Facultatii de Arta si Design din Cluj-Napoca. Anul acesta a participat la masterclass-ul organizat de “Arts of Fashion Foundation, San Francisco” ce s-a desfasurat la “Musee des Arts Decoratifs” din Paris. In cadrul masterclass-ului, Florina Ivascu, impreuna cu ceilalti participanti au avut ocazia sa invete tainele broderiilor de la una dintre cele mai de renume ateliere de broderie, Maison Lesage. Colectia nascuta din aceasta colaborare, “Archi-Couture|The antidote to uniformity” a fost prezentata in Hall des Marechaux, Palais du Louvre si in San Francisco, urmand ca in 2013 sa fie prezentata la Beijing. Incantate de succesul Florinei Ivascu si curioase in legatura cu experienta sa in atelierele Maison Lesage, i-am adresat Florinei cateva intrebari.

“Cancer Flower – Uniquely Untrendy” este colectia care, in anul 2010, ti-a adus un premiu in cadrul concursului organizat de“Arts of Fashion Foundation” din San Francisco. Premiul a constat intr-un internship in Paris, sub indrumarea designerului Jean-Charles de Castelbajac. Ce a insemnat aceasta experienta si oportunitate pentru cariera ta de designer vestimentar?

In acel an eu studiam la Milano si din pacate nu am putut urma acest internship, mai departe premiul meu a fost inlocuit de acest Masterclass tot in Paris. Lucrul care ma incanta inca inainte de premiere, pentru ca vroiam sa castig cat mai multe contacte. Din punctul meu de vedere a fost cel mai bine asa.
Scopul acestui masterclass a fost de a ne pune in practica dar si de a ne imbunatati cunostintele si aptitudinile. Am avut ocazia sa lucrez langa studenti din toate colturile lumii, USA, Korea, China, Arabia, Australia. Acolo ni s-a oferit oportunitatea de a colabora cu Maison Lesage Paris dar si cu designeri renumiti. Am avut acces oriunde in Muzeul Louvre, expozitiile fiind sursa noastra de inspiratie. Am lucrat foarte mult la acest proiect impreuna, program prelungit neavand nici o zi libera iar noptile scurte.
In cadrul Masterclass-ului, ai avut ocazia sa colaborezi cu faimosul atelier de broderie Maison Lesage. Ce inseamna pentru un designer sa aiba acces la tehnicile folosite la realizarea pieselor haute-couture?

Am invatat tehnicile de brodat direct in atelierele Lesage si le-am pus in practica in proiectul personal realizat in salile de specializare de la Musee des Arts Decoratifs. Ne-au dezvaluit mici secrete si ne-au aratat si modul de concepere al broderiilor pana in etapa finala. Am avut acces si la broderiile revolutionare realizate in deceniile trecute pentru marile case de moda. Am avut oportunitatea de a observa (cu putin timp inainte de fashion show) broderiile ce erau in lucru pentru Chanel Fall 2012 Couture. Maison Lesage lucreaza in proportie de apx. 80% pentru Chanel. Este o experienta unica si din toate aceste contacte am avut multe de invatat.
Cum ai reusit sa imbini tehnicile folosite in atelierele Lesage cu propria ta viziune artistica?

Cerinta a fost de a avea o viziune noua de broderie, usor neconventionala. Eu am ales sa creez paiete tridimensionale pentru brodat din plastic, aceasta pe langa celelalte cumparate sau oferite de Lesage. Am adus un touch modern pentru creatia Couture. Materialul ales a avut deasemenea un aspect modern la care era imposibil de folosit tehnica Luneville, de aceea pe suportul de brodat semnat Lesage am brodat cu ace simple. Au fost incantati de modul meu de abordare, de receptivitatea si timpul de incadrare pentru broderia aleasa. In final fiind felicitata si de directorul artistic de la Maison Lesage – Hubert Barrere si stylistul coordonator in broderie Caroline Winckel.
Care a fost contributia ta la colectia “ARCHI COUTURE – The Antidote to Uniformity”?

Pornind de la cerintele date, conceptul a fost creat de mine, executia a fost 100% a mea dar si suportul material iar partea de coordonare, indrumare si oferire a tuturor informatiilor, contacte si ajutor pentru concept a venit din partea colaboratorilor si organizatorilor. Am avut acces in Biblioteca Louvre de unde am pornit partea de documentare din marile cataloage de moda si broderie a anilor ’50, ’60, documente unice .
Care ar fi urmatorul pas pentru designerul Florina Ivascu?

Momentan lucrez la diferite proiecte printre care si continuarea acestei colectii Couture unde vreau sa duc mai departe noi abordari in broderie, colectie care va fi prezentata la Gala Avanpremiere Bucuresti in luna mai 2013. Planuiesc ca in vara 2013 sa imi continui acest Masterclass la Paris colaborand din nou cu Maison Lesage si Atelier Lognon renumiti pentru tehnicile de pliere, dar in limita in care reusesc sa gasesc sponsori pentru sprijin financiar sau poate chiar printr-o colaborare cu o casa de moda din Romania.

Noi ii uram Florinei Ivascu success in viitoarele sale proiecte si speram sa continue sa ne incante cu talentul sau.

Lana “La Naive”

Despre Lana si activitatea ei creativa din domeniul fashion-ului autohton am mai povestit in trecut. De ce continuam sa vorbim despre Lana? Pentru ca Lana, chiar daca este inca la inceput de drum, a reusit sa isi contureze un univers estetic coerent, pentru ca Lana este printre putinii designeri romani carora nu le este frica sa foloseasca print-urile digitale, pentru ca stie sa le si foloseasca, pentru ca imbina traditionalul cu modernul, pentru ca se diferentiaza printr-un subtil simt al umorului si nonsalanta.

“La Naive”, cea mai recenta colectie a sa, rezolva o mare parte din problemele ce au legatura cu alegerea garderobei pentru sezonul rece (cel putin pentru noi). Cele mai cool geci matlasate, acompaniate de rucsacuri, colanti si bluze/rochii primesc, pe langa functia lor practica, o functie estetica. O parte din piesele vestimentare prezente in colectie sunt rezultatul colaborarii dintre talentul Lanei si viziunea artistica a pictorului suprarealist Adrian Preda si a ilustratoarei Irina Broboana.


Conceptul vestimentar orbiteaza in jurul efectului de trompe l’oeil, o oportunitate perfecta pentru mine de a manipula operele “Papei Suprarealismului” – Rene Magritte, ale lui Rousseau-Douanier (a carui pictura exotica, contine acum, in remixul meu, o familie traditională romaneasca purtand costume folclorice), irisii eterici ai lui Van Gogh si un fragment din opera florala a pictoritei moderniste Georgia O’Keefe. Acestea pot fi luate ca o serie de omagii textile aduse unor maestri dar si ca o tentativa de a pune creatiile lor intr-o perspectiva noua, surprinzatoare -declara Lana.

Geci matlasate,suprarealism, trompe l’oeil,  forme arhitecturale…toate anunta un anotimp in care ajungem sa ne bucuram, in sfarsit, de frigul de afara.


Mentionam la inceputul articolului faptul ca Lana isi contureaza un univers estetic coerent. Ea reuseste acest lucru revizitandu-si creatiile din trecut, incercand sa le actualizeze printr-un proces de reciclare ce, odata efectuata, permite viziunii artistice sa evolueze. In colectia “La Naive”, Lana s-a fotografiat in cunoscuta rochie de inspiratie etno, din prima sa colectie, folosind imaginea creata pe post de “sablon narcisist pe suprafata unei camasi”, afirmand astfel “tautologia artistului” si “efectul ironic ale reciclarii propriilor idei artistice”.


sursa poze:

sursa informatii:

Astrid Tirlea si al sau cabinet de curiozitati

  • Care sunt filmele tale preferate?
  • Am doar unul preferat: Stay
  • Care sunt formatiile tale preferate?
  • Interpol, M83, Patrick Wolf
  • Care este ultima carte citita?
  • Dan Lungu – Sunt o babă comunistă
  • Care sunt artistii tai preferati?
  • Gareth Pugh, Rick Owens, Stephane Rolland, Ron Mueck, Anish Kapour, Van Gogh
  • Daca ai face parte dintr-o echipa de exploratori ce pornesc intr-o calatorie spatiala inspre noi teritorii si civilizatii, care ar fi cele 5 lucruri pe care le-ai lua cu tine?
  • O poza cu cei dragi, motanul Betmen (cu echipament adecvat, desigur), as strecura in bagaj cei mai frumosi pantofi pe care-i am, sa le arunc priviri duioase pe furis, somnifere/calmante multe fiindcă sufar de agorafobie si nu in ultimul rand, o intreaga biblioteca media.


Pe Astrid am ajuns sa o cunosc treptat. Pe Astrid am ajuns sa o cunosc printr-o serie de circumstante mai mult si mai putin neobisnuite (greseala intentionata). Faptul ca am ajuns sau nu am ajuns sa o cunosc indeajuns de bine pe Astrid nici nu conteaza de fapt pentru ca pe Astrid nici macar nu trebuie sa o cunosti. Pe Astrid trebuie sa o povestesti.

Astrid, cunoscuta de necunoscuti si ca Astrid Tirlea, este un tanar designer vestimentar, originar din Oradea, adoptat in prezent de Cluj-Napoca. Prima ei aparitie pe acest blog a avut loc in urma cu aproximativ un an cand incercam sa “descalcim” nodurile colectiei sale de absolvire a masteratului sectiei de Design vestimentar din cadrul UAD. Din acel moment si pana in prezent, circumstantele mai mult si mai putin neobisnuite (greseala intentionata, din nou) ne-au premeditat intalnirea ce sta marturie urmatoarelor relatari.

Dintr-o curiozitate caracteristica noua si cu acordul celei mai sus mentionate, ne-am permis sa invadam spatial aparte in care Astrid isi depoziteaza talentul, pasiunea pentru haine, obsesia pentru accesorii si identitatile secrete ale extravagantului sau motan Betmen.

Micul atelier improvizat de Astrid este combinatia reusita (cel putin din punctul nostru de vedere) dintre extravaganta dressingului detinut de Carrie Bradshaw si decadenta vilei locuite de Miss Havisham. Micul atelier improvizat de Astrid este, cu siguranta, visul oricarei fete. Si tocmai de aceea invazia noastra s-a transformat intr-o sedere cu poveste in care am incercat sa aflam care au fost primi pasi  ai sai dupa absolvirea studiilor academice de specialitate.

Odata ce am terminat masterul, am stiut ca primul lucru pe care trebuie sa-l fac e sa incep sa produc mini colectii pe care sa le introduc in diverse magazine din tara. In acelasi timp, am inceput sa primesc tot mai multe comenzi pentru rochii de ocazie cat mai deosebite de ce se gaseste pe piata fashion din România si astfel am ajuns sa deschid un mic atelier de creatie.

Uitandu-ne la piesele create de tine am remarcat prezenta unor elemente ce provin dintr-o zona a fetish-urilor si a placerilor interzise ( insertii de piele, transparenţe si decupaje introduse in suprafetele materialelor) si mi-am adus aminte de inspiratia ce a stat la baza proiectului tau de diploma. Ce alte elemente au fost adaugate universului tau creativ?

In continuare ma definesc transparentele si decupajele si ma folosesc la fel de mult de piele si inlocuitori ca inainte, dar odata cu noul sezon m-am trezit ca sunt atrasa de voaluri si matasuri in nuante pale de serbeturi sau dimpotriva, de culori neon si fluo. In ultimul timp am lucrat mult si cu printuri, urmand ca foarte curand sa lansez o linie ready-to-wear superincarcata de imprimeuri macro.

Ce am observat si ne-a placut la creatiile sale e ca reusesc sa contureze portretul unei femei nascute sa le poarte, asta fara a inlatura posibilitatea altor  tipologii feminine sa le agreeze.Ti-ai creat cat de cat un grup de cliente ce iti impartasesc viziunea sau ai o clientela diversificata?

Initial, clientele care veneau la atelier stiau exact pentru ce apeleaza la mine si deci de la bun inceput am avut numai colaborari fructuoase. Cu timpul, clientela a inceput sa se diversifice si m-am trezit pusa in situatii cel putin ciudate cand unele cliente pareau sa creada ca vin la o croitorie non-stop.

Pe langa linia sa proprie, Astrid a  mai pus bazele si altor colaborari… 

Pe langa creatiile Astrid Tirlea, colaborez in continuare cu partenerul meu, Raul Lupu, la proiectul de imprimeuri manuale Motzilov si la realizarea proiectelor video. Am pastrat si legatura cu fostele colege de masterat cu care am infiintat T.A.R.E. (Teodora Visinescu, Ramona Rusu si Elke Szilier), linie cu care participam la diverse targuri de moda din tara.

De cateva luni, imi hranesc pasiunea pentru research scriind articole despre tehnologia in lumea modei pentru revista de arta contemporana Samizdat, iar alaturi de echipa aceasta prolifică urmează sa produc costume pentru un scurt metraj.

Daca Astrid a fost atat de amabila sa ne raspunda intrebarilor in timp ce noi ii devoram (cu delicatete) neconventionalele gustari pe care ni le-a pregatit (si pentru care ii multumim inca o data), nu puteam sa parasim atelierul inainte sa ii scotocim prin “cabinetul de curiozitati” si sa punem la cale cateva optiuni de tinute pornind de la piese ale propriilor sale mini colectii.

Pe Astrid am ajuns sa o cunosc treptat. Pe Astrid am ajuns sa o cunosc printr-o serie de circumstante putin neobisnuite. Faptul ca am ajuns sau nu am ajuns sa o cunosc indeajuns de bine pe Astrid nici nu conteaza de fapt pentru ca pe Astrid nici macar nu trebuie sa o cunosti. Pe Astrid trebuie sa o povestesti…iar atelierul sau trebuie neaparat sa il explorezi.

sursa poze: ,

High Fashion Basics with a little bit of sweet

Cele trei zane ale tuturor lucrurilor dulci, impreuna cu Razvan Firea, au complotat impotrva iubitorilor de “fashion with a twist” si au inventat magica reteta care ii va face sa se indragosteasca iremediabil de Le Petit Indigent.

Le Petit Indigent e proiectul inceput cu ceva timp in urma de mai sus numitul Razvan Firea prin care acesta experimenteaza zone alternative ale vestimentatiei urbane prin intermediul print-urilor ce functioneaza ca element surpriza al tinutelor.

Povestea sa ar suna cam asa: “On the street you first felt time could stop; in the night subway that brings you back from the party that changed your life; Down the Rivoli;From the colorful, animated, fun Marais, towards the glamourous, sparkling Saint-Honore, i’ve capturated flashes of the crowned heads of the Parisian Underground. Through their eyes, my story.”

Colectia Royal Sweet face parte din proiectul Le Petit Indigent si este constituita din piese lejere din bumbac si lycra, perfecte pentru o fantezie urbana de o dupa masa, fie ea de vara, toamna sau primavara…


sursa poze:

Piesele pot fi achizitionate de pe site-ul sau din interiorul magazinului The Place Concept Store, Bucuresti


Catalin Valean – castigatorul concursului “Fii creator de Haute-Couleur”

“Pe tot parcursul vietii, omul dezvolta o anumita maleabilitate cand vine vorba de evolutia sa personala. Fragilitatea fiecaruia depinde de o sumedenie de factori, fiind obisnuiti sa ne lasam influentati de orice personaj care ne iese in cale, sa ne schimbam gusturile in mod constant, sa comitem greseli si sa invatam din ele, sa ne lasam purtati de val cateodata mai mult decat ar trebui. Ducem lipsa de nou, iar din aceasta cauza tindem sa ne pierdem in copilarii. Invatam culorile pe nume, le asociem cu perioade marcante din viata noastra, cu persoane care ne-au influentat sau care o sa ne influenteze, dar pe care le schimbam si inlocuim constant, ca mai tarziu sa ne reintoarcem la ele. Senzatia de instabilitate devine un fenomen fascinant, iar viata doar un joc care isi schimba culoarea in functie de trairile noastre in momentul respectiv.”

Cam asa suna propunerea lui Catalin Valean pentru concursul national de schite de design vestimentar ” Fii creator de Haute – Couleur”  demarat de platforma online atelierperwoll. Din cei 79 de participanti la acest concurs, in urma deliberarii juriului format din Adelina Ivan (designer vestimentar), Marian Palie (fashion stylist), Carmen Andrei (reprezentant magazin Cocor) si Larisa Guzga (reprezentant Henkel Romania, divizia detergenti), Catalin Valean a fost ales castigatorul primei editii a concursului ” Fii creator de Haute – Couleur”. Pe langa nota primita din partea juriului, castigatorul a fost ales si in functie de voturile oferite de vizitatorii platformei online a concursului timp de doua saptamani. Criteriile de jurizare au inclus: respectarea temei, conceptul colectiei create, tesaturile alese si potentialul vandabil al creatiilor.

Miza finala a concursului: castigarea sumei de 1500 euro, bani care ii vor permite castigatorului sa creeze, special pentru aceasta competitie, o colectie de 5-7 tinute pornind de la schitele inscrise in concurs. Odata materializata, colectia va beneficia de expunere gratuita spre vanzare in Galeria Designerilor Romani din magazinul Cocor, timp de 4 luni, in perioada septembrie-decembrie 2012.

Cătălin Vălean este student la Universitatea de Arte şi Design din Cluj-Napoca, secţia design-vestimentar, premiul dobandit de acesta demonstrand inca o data potentialul creativ existent in orasul nostru. Colectia de schite intitulata “Tranzitii” propune ținute pentru ambele sexe cuprinzand o gama diversificata de piese ce constituie ansamblurile vestimentare imaginate de tanarul designer. Propunerea sa pentru acest concurs surprinde si la nivelul schitei care contribuie  la reliefarea conceptului ce sta la baza colectiei. Seria sa de schite promite la nivel vizual si asteptam cu nerabdare sa vedem rezultatul final si concret al demersului sau creativ.